Arriving by train in the old town of Cesky Krumlov we took a taxi to the town center, about three miles, and hunted around for a place to spend the next two days.  We hadn’t made any reservations as we knew the town was full of pensions, or the European equivalent of a U.S. bed and breakfast.

We started in the main square but found it busy and crowded, so we walked through some alleys until we crossed the river.  We knocked on the door of the Pension u Kaplièky, but received no response.  We continued walking around a corner and up a hill, but realized we were about a mile from the city by then.  We returned and passed the u Kaplièky once more, admiring it’s big back yard adjacent to the river.  We found the “real” door and met a nice woman, her husband, and  their son of about 10 or so. 

Inside of the old church were two beautifully appointed guest suites.  Ours was a room in the front half of the second floor, up a refreshingly cool walkway inside the old stone building.  Communication was challenging as neither of us speak Czech,  but with Caleb’s German we managed to figure out the rate, and we were handed the keys with a smile.

The best part of our two days came daily at 8am, when we were brought in a cart of fresh breakfast for us.  Ham and cheese croissiants, scrambled eggs, bananas, tea, pancakes with powdered sugar, and pastries.   I’ve never had a breakfast that filling before. 

Unfortunately I didn’t recall our the names of our hosts, but when I find it I’ll post it should anyone want to make a reservation.  They’re wonderful people, and you’ll have an excellent stay. 

Info:  Pension u kaplièky, Linecká 60, Ceský Krumlov 381 01, Telephone: +420 380 714 123, +420 380 712 844 Mobile phone: +420 606 434 090

ukaplicky@ckrumlov.cz   www.ckrumlov.cz/ukaplicky

Below: An alley near the hotel, and our room.

Share This

Having procrastinated in purchasing authentic German kitsch for our friends in the U.S. I kept my eyes open during my bike ride Sunday for something to bring back home. After relaxing at the English Gardens until I found Brown’s Tea Bar for lunch in adjacent Schwabing. After gobbling up some coffee and scones I purchased some of their teas and jams to take with me. The lady was wonderful to talk with as I recanted my positive impressions of my time in Munich. My tea was packaged on the spot, and in addition to surprising friends with a nice, well, British present from Munich, the tea made my messenger bag smell better than it ever has. Take that dirty socks.

They have two locations in Munich. Türkenstrasse 60 in Schwabing and the Victorian House at Frauenstrasse 14, near Marienplatz. Online at victorianhouse.de

Share This

Well it’s been days since I’ve written a post.  I’m certain that my few readers have long since abandoned me.  However Munich and Prague we’re smashing!   I had planned to post a daily report with photos - but we were so busy exploring the utopian streets of Munich via foot and bike that there was no time left. Pictures and trip report coming soon. 

I saw a display of books by Daab at the “Palace of Books” on Wenceslas Square in Prague.  Daab highlights the best design of various life such as airports, clubs, restaurants, lounges, and streets.   They also showcase ethnic themes including Spanish and Arabic design, and have a photo series on the architecture and design of various cities.

Check them out:  www.daab-online.de  Photos from “Aircraft Design” and “Hotel Design”

Share This

(more…)

Share This

Having not completed my full trip reports on Munich, Prague, and the Czech region, here’s some various photos of trains and subways. These are the S-Bahn, U-Bahn, and main train station in Munich.

S-Bahn regional train

(more…)

Share This

View of town from the hill

(more…)

Share This

Frontier Airlines, Denver’s “home” airline will start flying to San Jose, Costa Rica in November. Occasionally I check fares on this route for a potential upcoming trip, but have found them to be in the $600 range with the most convenient connection being through Dallas on American.

According to Kayaks’ “fare buzz,” (pictured), this price has now dropped to $300 when scheduling in November. Pretty cool, especially given that arriving in San Jose still necessitates a two hour drive to the beaches. Direct flights, or additional options for easy connecting flights will definitely makes Costa Rica more accessible, hopefully to me this winter.

Share This

Villages between the towns of Ceske Budejovice and Cesky Krumlov, in the southern region of the Czech Republic.

I love how each house had it’s own garden and firewood stacked next to it. Very green and self sufficient!

(more…)

Share This

While escaping the touristy Old Town district of Prague we wandered north to Prague 7, home of the National Technical Museum and the Prague Market. 

Not much was happening at the beer garden overlooking the river, but located in the shadow of the museum was the restaurant and bar “Prague Cats”.   After eating our share of pork, sauerkraut, and cabbage during the first two nights in Prague we were searching for some lighter fare.  Prague Cats features excellent poultry and salads, at non-touristy prices.

Their dessert menu even features “Hot Wild Fruit”.  Jerri Blank would be pleased!  We returned to Prague Cats a few nights later but after waiting a half hour for our dessert were told it was waiting to be made behind a group of five. Still next time in Prague I’d give them another visit.  They’re at Letohradska 775 in Prague 7, behind the museum.

Share This

Ceský Krumlov  More town photos Photos from outside town

After a few busy days in Prague seeing the town, historic sights, and nightlife, we boarded a three hour train south to the historic town of Cesky Krumlov.

As with our Munich-Prague trip, what we thought would be a simple one seat train trip turned into a longer ordeal due to some track repair. In the town of Ceske Budejovice we deboarded and the entire populace of the train switched to a few motor coaches. We were driven south through some towns about 50 kilometers where we boarded a second train to carry us to Cesky Krumlov. I didn’t mind the bus portion too much as it gave me a chance to see the roads and road signs close up, and pass through a few small towns.

The Cesky Krumlov train station is about four miles from the city center. We found a cab and wound our way through the maze of streets until reaching the historic square.

(more…)

Share This

In searching for a place to stay in Prague I was about to select Sir Toby’s, located in Prague 7. Sir Toby’s was located across the river in Prague 7, which actually was a great area when we visited the restaurant “Prague Cats.” I ended up making a reservation at Miss Sophie’s - which is owned by the same people as Sir Toby’s, but located in Prague 2, also known as New Town.

This turned out to be a wonderful location. The central part of Prague, (Prague 1,) is VERY touristy. Small hotels are crammed into the narrow alleys which are FULL of tourists and shoppers day and night. Miss Sophie’s is located south of Wenceslas Square near the I.P. Pavlova metro station. Close enough to easily reach all activities and sights in Prague. But separate enough to feel away from it at the end of the night and visit restaurants that are cheaper and have a more local flavor.

After arriving from our long train ride from Munich (due to four transfers,) we hauled ourselves to the metro station and stared at the machine in bewilderment at how to purchase tickets. As with my arrival at the Munich airport I figured no fare inspector will hassle you for not having the exact ticket required- just as along as you HAVE a ticket for around the correct amount. The Prague subway is easy with only three lines, and we took the red line two stops down, exited the large I.P. Pavlova station and walked three blocks to Miss Sophie’s.

Above: Prague metro: Mustek Station and I.P. Pavlova. Below: Miss Sophie’s

Miss Sophie’s is a small boutique hotel, astonishingly modern given the historical surroundings of the city. As such is Prague: hip clubs, trendy furniture stores, and modern restaurants sit juxtaposed or hidden in cellars along the centuries old castles and houses. The furnishings of Miss Sophie’s are minimal and modern. Lights turn on automatically in the bathroom. The shower is stone and glass with a metal grate. The beds comfortable, and being on a side street the street noise is relatively quiet.

The neighborhood of Prague 2 is and excellent place to base yourself as a “temporary local.” Even though it’s only two miles or a quick subway ride to the old town square it’s a world away. You’ll see mostly locals bustling about office buildings, running errands, or running for the trams that constantly snake through the streets. This area also has an enormous selection of small cafes and markets. At times when we didn’t want to sit down for a full meal we’d pop into a market, order some sliced meat, grab some bread from the many baskets and make a quick sandwich. Miss Sophie’s has two free internet terminals, but there are also a few internet cafes in the area, and a nearby laundromat,

For breakfast we ended up eating at Banditos, a Mexican restaurant located directly across the street from Miss Sophie’s, and for dinner two nights we visited the Pivovarsky Dum restaurant.

Miss Sophie’s is located at Melounova 3, at Melounova and Jecna. If taking a cab home it’s best to just tell them “I.P. Pavlova Metro,”and walk the two blocks. We found both trips in a cabs the driver didn’t know where this tiny street angled street was located.

They’re at: www.miss-sophies.com

Share This

Staying two blocks from the Hauptbahnhof, or the central rail station of Munich was an excellent decision. In addition to wandering around the enormous modern steel and glass station in my down time to watch ICE trains speed in and out, I was able to pop in and purchase our tickets to Prague. As many traveler do I had considered buying a pass before leaving, but I couldn’t find any passes easily linking Munich and the Czech Republic. Plus Prague was our only other major city, so to reduce complications I simply bought the ticket in Munich. Our tickets were only 62 Euro each for a round trip, or about $100 USD.

We departed early Sunday morning after a late late, late, night out in Munich. We settled down for what we thought would be an easy yet groggy one seat six hour trip. I failed to realize that when a ticket lists two or three cities on a departure line that means you need to SWITCH trains. I though it simply meant a city the train stopped at. When we reached the Regensburg, the first city listed on the ticket we were surprised that we had to exit and switch trains. And do it fast. The next train to Schwandorf was leaving in about five minutes. Arriving Schwandorf we switched to a Czech train and found a comfortable compartment with a table. A group of American ladies settled down a few seats and took about 40 minutes to get settled and situated while deciding which seat would work best for blocking out the sun. My schedule listed this as the last transfer, so we finally settled down and got some much needed sleep. Did I mention it was a very late night in Munich?

About an hour later while rolling through the hills of the Czech countryside a train attendant quickly dashed through the cars rapidly explaining something to all the passengers. In Czech of course. Fortunately a young Czech gentleman explained to the ladies that this train would terminate shortly, necessitating another transfer for the remaining leg to Prague. In the town of Vychod (left,) about 100 miles west of Prague all passengers exited. We waited about 20 minutes for another train to pull up. For some reason everyone, (including us,) wound up cramming into the first few cars. All of the compartments being filled we found ourselves just standing in the hallway. However the view of the rivers, town, and surrounding countryside was beautiful enough I didn’t mind standing up looking out the window with the air blowing on my face while listening to my iPod to drown out the chatter. Tired, annoyed, and just wanting to get to Prague - that last leg rolling through the hills until arriving Prague’s main station (below) was the best part of the trip.

Share This

After a few days of exploring Munich by foot and rail, and a rainy day in the Deutches Museum, we took the S-Bahn up to Dachau. Dachau is about 40 minutes outside of the city. Like the ride in from the airport you don’t see the sprawl and endless suburbs we’re accustomed to in the states. The city center and core gives way to mid rise apartments and small industrial parks, then houses with small yards visible from the tracks. Like other small towns Dachau’s train station is in the heart of the town– and opens up to a McDonalds right in the station.

Exiting the McStation you see a marker directing you to the Dachau Memorial Site, where the concentration camp was housed during World War II. In 2003 a full three mile walk from the town center to the gates of the site with markers and directions along the way. This walk mirrors the walk of the prisoners as they stepped off the train and made their way to the camp.

Being a comfortable mild May day we decided to walk the entire route, which allowed us to take in the entire city, and see many houses and styles of small town Germany. And we saw quite a few houses and yards after we lost the path two different times. The town of Dachau itself seemed utopian in it’s perfection. Kids on bikes waving to fellow neighbors, people working in their garden, and bustling in and out of stores and restaurants. It reminded me of the village from the Prisoner. “Be seeing You!” The walk took longer than we expected, but fortunately we found a Bratwurst stand for lunch. Another half mile of walking and we arrived at the gates.

The entire site is accessible and it’s encouraged to explore both inside and out of the gates. The perimeter is clearly delineated with multiple guard towers and the high fences still remain.

The main building houses the offices and over 14,000 documents, photos, and archives from the period of 1933 to 1945. Tours in English are given throughout the day. We listened in on part of a tour as the guide described the cruel and almost medieval methods of punishment and torture, including passive practices like the minimal food and water provided for the amount of labor expected, as well as the overcrowding conditions which contributed to diseases like typhoid. The photos in the main building highlight the deplorable conditions in which the prisons lived. The site was originally built and intended for only a fraction of the 200,000 people that passed through. Only two of the 32 barracks remain standing. The rest are noted by the endless cement foundations stretching to the far walls.

As I wandered the grounds alone I saw a nun sitting in various areas of the camp: on the cement foundations of the barracks, near the flower lined wall, and in the center of the main yard. I watched her as she seemed deep in thought and reflection. I wondered if her mind was engaged in prayer and memory for those lost, or the forgiveness of unforgivable actions. Or I wondered if like myself she was questioning the logic and reasonings of what drives humans to follow blindly follow their leaders, no matter how insane the task given.

Share This

During my two weeks in Europe I was surprised at what a cycling city Munich was. My only thoughts of major biking in Europe were of the Netherlands. Munich is truly an advanced biking city: Bike lanes on many major routes, many cyclists amid cars in streets flowing perfectly with traffic, designated bike, walk, and drive signals at many intersections too.

All pedestrians and drivers are accustomed to folks cycling as a normal form of transportation. People whisked by me with German efficiency, with exception to this American accidentally standing or walking in the bike lane on occasion . And when I was in the way a polite ring of a bell sufficed just fine.

Here’s some random commuter bike photos I snapped. And look at these sexy fenders!

Basket and sleek fenders!

At the central train station

(more…)

Share This

Of course after doing cultural and touristy things all day in Munich, and winding down biking through the English gardens we searched out some places to chill in the Zendlinger Tor neighborhood, which is Munich’s home to several gay oriented restaurants and bars.

KraftAkt is a typical gay S&M bar. No not that kind. The hip new use of the term refers to “standing and modeling” - or a place to hang out and be seen. KraftAkt is that to the letter - but it’s also a fun hangout. A coffee shop and restaurant by day and a bar by night they’re open earlier, have good food and a friendly bar staff. We visited here for dinner and drinks twice before heading out later to the other bars.

If you’re looking for a nice safe German gay bar, with plenty of straights and metros too give them visit. They’re located in Zendlinger Tor, directly above the U-Bahn exit. www.kraftakt.com

Share This

We woke up our second day in Munich to cloudy skies and constant rain, so we decided to visit the Deutches Museum.  We made our way to the S-Bahn, and took it a few stops east to Isartor, where a pleasant walk over the river connects the museum to the subway station. 

Being the holiday of Ascension Day the museum was quite busy and a line snaked along the outside wall.  We chatted with some nice people from Kansas who were in Munich visiting relatives.  We joked about the number of people attending the museum during a holiday - and that too many people back in the states spend their holidays in furniture stores chasing down sales.

The Deutches Museum reminded me of Chicago’s Museum of Science and Industry.  Exhibitions covering the last 100 years of technology, science, communication, engineering and transportation.

From their site

The Deutsches Museum possesses over 100 000 objects from the fields of science and technology.  The large number of valuable original exhibits makes the Deutsches Museum one of the most important museums of science and technology anywhere in the world.  The collections are not restricted to any specialized range of topics: they include objects from mining to atomic physics, from the Altamira cave to a magnified model of a human cell.  They extend from the Stone Age to the present time.  Collecting historically significant objects is still one of the Museum’s central tasks, so that the stock is constantly growing.

About a quarter of the objects are on exhibition – in the main museum on the island in the river, at the transport museum on the Theresienhöhe, in the hangar at Schleißheim airfield, and in the Deutsches Museum Bonn.  These illustrate important developments in science and technology, right down to current research.

Among the particular highlights (besides many others!) are the first motorized aircraft built by the Wright brothers, the U1 submarine, the first program-controlled computer (Conrad Zuse’s Z3), and Diesel’s original engine on the island; the first motorcar by Karl Benz in the transport museum; the Douglas DC3 at Schleißheim; and the first Fischer wall plug in Bonn.

I found the exhibit of old computers and processing machines especially interesting, and being a map and geography geek I spent almost an hour in the historical and modern day cartography area. The upper floors of museum provides small alcoves with open dormer windows overlooking the river and city.   It reminded my of the type of places you’d rappel into from the roof for a late night diamond heist.  There are no diamonds there however, but if you’re into German and technological history it’s worth a day of your trip.  Oh and the Hindenberg and Zeppelin are extensively covered in the aviation section.

Much more info on the Deutsches Museum is at www.deutsches-museum.de/en/

Share This

The name sounds cheesy, or sleazy, or yeah - easy, but the Easy Palace Hotel in Munich was the perfect location for our time in Munich.  I didn’t have a clue about the area other than knowing that the enormous central train station was a good hub to base yourself at. I saw online and from Google Earth that the Easy Palace Hotel was literally steps from the entrance to the train/UBahn/SBahn station, along a relatively quiet pedestrian street.

The hotel is a standard European small hotel.  There’s five stories and it’s sandwiched between some other buildings.  A large wide staircase wraps through the center and a small elevator serves those with luggage, or those not caring for a hike up the stairs.  The interior is standard and although the carpet is a bit shabby we found ourselves content and at home here.  We stayed in two rooms, one before our trip to Prague and then a during our remaining three days back in Munich.  Both were clean, quiet, and comfortable.

Like many smaller hotels they offer a free breakfast in the morning.  We enjoyed cold cuts, cheese, muffins, fruit, cereal and fresh coffee - and it ends up being a real money and time saver too.  By night it’s a restaurant serving standard German and American food which a small selection of beers.   The restaurant atmosphere is perfect for that night when you’ve partied for the past few days and just want to stay in and chat with some new friends.

The young staff was friendly and helpful.  There’s someone on duty at all hours - everyone was very helpful with any questions, and they made sure we were up the morning of our flight home as well.

Easy Palace also operates the Easy Palace City Hostel, near the Octoberfest grounds.

Their English site is at www.easypalace.de/english/index.html

Share This