Sunday Apr 20 2008
A few years back I took this picture on the streets of Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. This small ensemble of percussionists was slowly ambling down the street to the rhythm’s staccato beat.
I watched curiously for a bit, but this particular side street was empty of people so there was no one around to ask what was going on.
Due to leave soon on a boat back to Buenos Aires I didn’t think too much more of it until reviewing my photos. Later, at home, I posted the photo on a few travel forums soliciting answers, but I didn’t receive any replies.
I recently received an email from Shirley - answering my question and directing me to the site candombe.com- which explains the art, history, music, dress, and everything else beyond what’s captured in this small group.
From candombe.com:
Candombe (can-dome-bey) is an African derived rhythm that has been an important part of Uruguayan culture for over two hundred years. Uruguay, with a population of approximately 3.2 million, is a small country located in South America, bordered by its two massive neighbors, Brazil (162 million) to the East, and Argentina (34 million) to the West. This rhythm traveled to Uruguay from Africa with black slaves, and is still going strong in the streets, halls and carnivals of this small enchanting country.
Frequently, many drummers assemble onto the streets of Montevideo, playing their drums under the moon lit sky. As these drums move down the narrow streets of Montevideo, doors and windows swing open wide to receive this message that’s being delivered. At intervals the cuerda will pause, and by setting a fire, will heat their drums’ skins for tuning purposes. Pure candombe.
To learn more about this Afro-Uruguayan music, and it’s history and long journey from Africa check out candombe.com. And thanks Shirley for the email!