Many bemoan the lack “authentic” Mexican restaurants in Denver. I don’t believe there’s a lack of quality Mexican places, rather they’re polluted by the sheer number of other restaurants slapping the word “Mexican” to their menu and branding. Many of these Tex Mex chains share the words “Mexican food,” in defining their fajitas, nacho spreads, sugary margaritas, and sour cream lathered dishes as “Mexican” food. Case in point: Hacienda Colorado. The food is decent and it’s a fun after work type place. But it’s as Mexican as Outback Steakhouse is Australian.

Authentic Mexican restaurants can be harder to find. Quality establishments have a regular following among family, friends, and neighbors, and having served their communities for years have no need for large scale advertising. For lunch or quick dinners I never have problem spotting a place. Drive crosstown on Federal and you’ll find plenty of decent joints. I have a few surrounding my home as well – for example when in Five Points I often take out from Taqueria Las Brasas at 33rd and Downing.

But I’ve always found the larger sit down family dinner places harder to spot. And the above describes El Paraiso in Wheat Ridge exactly. If you didn’t live in the neighborhood you’d probably never know it was there. We met some friends in Arvada for a movie, and they suggested we visit El Paraiso for dinner. It was their first visit too, having been advised from their friend to check it out. (See how it works.)

Meaning “The Paradise,” this hacienda style structure sits on a few acres of land on the southwest corner of Harlan and I-70. Their backyard looks across the lake to the twinkling lights of Lakeside Amusement Park.

El Paraiso is a real gathering local gathering spot, and from the looks of it has been around long before the nearby utlitarian off-ramp office buildings.

We were only one of the few speaking Spanish, which is another good sign you’ve found a true local place. I found the menu overwhelming, and it took about 15 minutes to drill down a dinner among the dozens of items. Thankfully we weren’t terribly hungry which provided an opportunity to sample a few margaritas, which were served in a normal size glass.

A brief aside on margarita servings: Why is a standard glass of margarita BETTER than the enormous fishbowl size glasses you get at other joints? Because a normal size margarita contains a proprotionate blend of tequila, liqueurs, and flavoring. Margaritas served in a saucer large enough to plunk your face into often do not. The sugar/mix content is extremely high against the alcohol content. Just because a giant glass brimming over with strawberry sludge makes you go “oooooh!!” does not mean the glass contains a quality product.

We noticed how substantial the plates were being delivered out to the floor, so decided to split the seafood plata. Filled with shrimp, mussels, and an assortment of other fish with vegetables this was the best Mexican seafood I’ve had since Mazatlan, or the Don Juan in Tulum.

Our friends had steak and chicken fajitas. This sounds a bit generic however the corn tortillas were some of the best, obviously prepared fresh and recent.

Although I’m not a Wheat Ridge local I’d happily return to El Paraiso. Currently it’s at 4.5 stars on Yelp – which is a good achievement. And another favorable review from Jacob Harkins at the Examiner.

El Paraiso has had solid reviews, but I found no website or menu online. You’ll have to check them out blindfolded. They’re at 4690 Harlan, in Wheat Ridge.

Below exterior photo from Doug Y at Yelp, whose photos are far superior than the two I took with my phone.