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Colorado . The West

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Thursday Feb 21 2008

Ski Trip Logistics

by James | under Colorado . The West , Travel
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I’ve been skiing in Colorado for 12 years.  Being a Denver local almost all of my trips are by car - usually for the day or overnight.  Over that time I’ve streamlined my personal process of loading up, parking, renting with friends, and transporting gear.

The only thing that stinks about skiing and snowboarding its the amount of unwieldy “stuff” you need to keep track of.   I don’t surf, but when booting up at the lifts I often think of how great surfers have it needing only a wet suit and a board…  The only activity more cumbersome than skiing/boarding is probably scuba diving.   And like scuba diving, when skiing if you forget one item it can make for a no-go, or an expensive local purchase. 

In addition to the standard stuff like boots, boards, and clothing - weather changes quickly, necessitating warm gear, liners, and lots of small things that can easily be forgotten or get lost.  While skiing at Breckenridge recently I was thinking of an old Seinfeld episode in which Elaine’s friend drops her off after a day of skiing, but leaves her several blocks from her apartment, making a clumsy and painful walk back with her gear, skis, boots, and poles.   

Here’s how I stay organized at, to, and from, the slopes:

Duffel Bag or really large backpack: This is a must.  I use a large old duffel bag to store our snowpants, gloves, goggles, sunscreen, heat packs, long sleeve liner shirts, headbands, and other miscellaneous warm gear.  I keep this in the front closet at home, and whenever I head out for a ski day or overnight trip I just grab it and go.  I know it’s all there, and make sure it all gets back into the bag when returning home.  I store gear both new and old in the bag,  and my old stuff always comes in handy if friends need them.

Also keeping all your small gear in ONE bag means you’re not spending the night before consolidating gloves, or your ski morning searching for things in the cracks of the car.  And it’s less likely to be left behind at home, or be left in a motel room.  My only exception to this is my ski boots which I keep in the car during winter. 

Towels.  Keep a few in your ski bag.   They come in handy for freshening up at 4pm if driving home.  If you’re transporting skis in your car they’re useful for resting skis and boards on the dash and seats.  Both can scratch up the interior of your car or a rental car.  You’ll still be impaled in an accident, but hey towels also soak up blood.  Also comes in handy for spilled drinks, and when you run our of windshield wiper fluid on the highway.

Walking with your gear.   Nothing cramps up that small tendon between your thumb and forefinger like clasping two heavy ski boots together.   Buy a small carrier from a company like skitoolcompany.com,   The pictured gadget also has a tool to help clasp and unclasp your buckles.

I use a ski bag for my skis and poles, but an excellent cheap solution is to use three or four bungee cords and bundle everything together.  If you’re riding for more than a day many resorts have a “valet” at the base, which will store your gear overnight.  It’s well worth the price, especially if you have a walk to the car.

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Thursday Feb 14 2008

Frontier Airlines Grows

by James | under Colorado . The West , Travel
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That is in the vast region of the U.S. West.   Today they announced that beginning this April and May their Bombardier Q400s and Embraers will service new cities (from their Denver hub,) to small towns in Colorado, Wyoming, and Montana.  

Skiers, mountain bikers, climbers, and outdoor enthusiasts around the country should give mad (turbo) props to Frontier.  These flights will bring (relatively) lower fares and make these towns more accessible.  Durango, CO and Jackson, WY are two of my favorite towns, however each is an eight hour drive from Denver making weekend road trips difficult.  I can’t help but wonder if they scanned through an “Outdoor Life” magazine and selected the latest “Top Ten Best Adventure Cities in the West” article.  Either way it’s great news.

Included in the new cities are:

Colorado Springs - Brings southern Colorado access to their Denver hub through this excellent small airport, and brings tourists to the Spring’s many family tourist spots.

Aspen and Grand Junction - More competition in the Aspen market, and Grand Junction serves as a gateway to western Colorado and Moab, Utah.

Durango - Located in the four corners area its one of my favorite Colorado towns, but a long drive from any major metropolitan area.  Home of Mesa Verde National Park and Durango Mountain Resort (formerly Purgatory.)

Jackson, Wyoming - easy access to the Tetons and Yellowstone Parks.   Just don’t park in Dick Cheney’s spot.

Full article from the Denver Business Journal.

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Monday Feb 4 2008

MotherLoaded Tavern . Breckenridge

by James | under Colorado . The West , Eat . Drink
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After a day of skiing in Breckenridge I usually head to “Downstairs at Erics,”  - the most popular pizza/hang out place in town.  Good pizza and a wide selection of beers round out this long standing establishment.  The only bad thing about Erics?  Located in the heart of Main Street they’re too popular.  As expected SuperBowl (come sue me NFL)  Sunday was packed, so we checked out the MotherLoaded Tavern, a mere 20 steps north of Erics at the southwest corner of Main Street and Ski Hill Road.

MotherLoaded takes you back to good old home cooking, before “healthy” TV dinners and a time when you actually bought a microwave at a microwave store.  And they’re the first to say they’re definitely borderline (or not) proud white trash cooking.  Their goal is to serve “The Best and Worst of Americana,” by recreating the fond dishes you grew up with. 

Interspersed among standard dishes of burgers, salads, and sandwiches are some definitely, umm, unique plates.  How about a Meatloaf Panini?  Or a grilled PB&J sandwich?  If you’ve ever wanted Mac & Cheese with a side of Bush’s Bake Beans but couldn’t bring yourself to prepare it - you can get it here…  They even offer a casserole of the day and shots of Mad Dog at 4:20 and 5:20. 

Back to the future: someone on staff must be from New Orleans, because they also have Catfish Po’Boys and red bean and rice gumbo.  Definitely one of the most bizarre, and enjoyable places I’ve visited.  Might I suggest one of my mom’s 80s favorites:  Hot Dog casserole.

Their site, and full menu.   Check out more Breckenridge places, including the Historic “Brown Hotel and Restaurant” from my earlier article.

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Tuesday Jan 29 2008

News of Interest 012908

by James | under Colorado . The West , News , Videos
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BBC’s Justin Web discusses how those abroad view the current U.S. elections.  Will the bright future promised by Obama be stamped out by Huckabee’s evangelical base (and theocratic rule?)  Justin’s blog.

Interstate 70 pops up again.  For those unfamiliar - The 75 mile stretch between Denver and Summit County suffers the same problem as I-15 from SoCal to Vegas:  numbing congestion for countless miles during weekend recreation traffic.    And it’s not limited to the ski season.  Drive back to the city any Sunday afternoon and you’ll be bumper to bumper for miles.  I rarely even go skiing on weekends anymore due to traffic and crowds; rather I drive up Sunday, stay overnight and ski all day Monday.  Options from a high speed (high elevation) train, banning semi trucks on weekends, congestion pricing, and freeway widening (which Idaho Springs will fight to the end,) have all been optioned.  The present solution?  Ski weekdays, or drive to Jackson Hole.

Rocky Mountain News discussion.

Reader and contributor M.P. sent me the scoop on L.A.’s new medical marijuana automatic dispensaries.   From Gizmodo and KCBS.  Fortunately (or unfortunately) my diabetes isn’t so crippling that I need to frequent this machine, but I think it’s a great option for those wishing to partake.  No complaints here…

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Monday Jan 21 2008

Small Skiing in Colorado

by James | under Colorado . The West , Travel
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Sunday’s Denver Post features a graphic/map of Colorado’s smaller ski areas.

Included are the popular Loveland and Eldora areas, unarguably the closest and most accessible to the Denver metro area, save for the new Echo Mountain.  Also charted are Monarch and Wolf Creek, towards the southwest corner of the state.

It’s a great summary and orientation for those planning a Colorado ski trip sans condos, large hotels, and spas.  

I would have added Arapahoe Basin. (pictured left.)  Perhaps because it’s just down the road from Keystone it gets lumped into the Summit County megaresorts.  Not quite as old timey feeling as the others, but still a place where you can park on site, lunch in a large dining hall, split up and still easily meet up at the base or picnic back at the car with the dogs.

Being a long time skier I chose this place to take on my first serious snowboard session last season.   It remains to be decided if I’ll do it again.

List and graphic here.   More of my A-Basin photos.

a p.s. tip:  For car-free visitors to Denver the Eldora Ski Area, west of Boulder in Nederland, is served by RTD’s “N” route.

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Saturday Sep 22 2007

Crested Butte . Ski For Free

by James | under Colorado . The West , Travel
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I’m enjoying an almost 90 degree day in the city, yet writing the first ski post of the season and anxious for some soft powder and my first day on the slopes.

Early season snowriders who will be in the central/southwestern Colorado area this fall - check out Crested Butte’s “Ski for Free” promotion.

The promotion details? Actually that’s pretty much it! Nothing more. From November 25th through December 15th Crested Butte will allow free access to all open trails! In addition they’re offering lodging and instruction specials during the promotion as well.

Their season opens November 17th. More info here, and at Crested Butte’s official site.

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Thursday Sep 20 2007

Travel News 092007

by James | under Colorado . The West , Sleep , Travel
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From the Rocky Mountain News: A-Basin steps up it’s marketing and size.  I’ve always recommended A-Basin as a low key destination for those visiting and skiing in Summit County.  It’s relatively small compared to the large resorts of Keystone and Breckenridge.  It’s close to all other Summit County resorts with local bus service, and it’s easy to get from street to slopes without being bogged down by shops, remote parking, and masses of people trundling along with you.

As A-Basin prepares to almost double in size this winter, ski area officials here hope the $3 million expansion will raise the area’s profile among out-of-state visitors and address some of the crowding it has experienced as it becomes more popular among local residents.

“More and more people are discovering Arapahoe,” said Alan Henceroth, chief operating officer of the 61-year-old ski area. “But if you go out of state, people don’t really know about us.”  With 400 acres of new trails on the backside of its summit, the area could prove an even stronger draw this season for Front Range residents. Its location on the western side of Loveland Pass makes it one of the closest ski areas to Denver.

From CNN Travel:  The Chambers Hotel in Minneapolis brings a chic look to the frosty midwest metropolis.  Following the lead of Kimpton’s chain, the Chambers bring a fresh look and vibe to the downtown Minneapolis area.  I would definitely stay here when hitting the Twin Cities.  But no mini rooftop swimming pool ala Yucatan’s Hotel Basico?  Just a thought for those muggy summer nights…

As much a local haunt as a business hub, the hotel’s airy lobby lures a crowd of twentysomethings in screen-printed T-shirts, glammed-up theatergoers, and after-work suits. Come night, they hit the clubby rooftop bar and courtyard fire pit next to Angus Fairhurst’s one-armed gorilla sculpture.

website at chambersminneapolis.com

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Monday Sep 10 2007

Raftmasters . Idaho Springs

by James | under Colorado . The West , Denver
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Well it’s 50 degrees, cloudy and drizzly today.  And I love it.  A nice change from the summer heat and a reminder to go out and buy some new winter biking gloves. With the summer wrapping up and the weather turning cold it’s probably the worst time to post about last Monday’s abbreviated rafting trip, but should be you searching Future Gringo for a place to raft near Denver in eight months  - then by all means visit Raftmasters in Idaho Springs.

On Labor day we didn’t feel like driving the distance to Buena Vista, my favorite Colorado town along the Arkansas River, so we headed to Idaho Springs and joined Raftmasters with some vacationing Chicagoans for a two hour trip down Clear Creek, between Idaho Springs and Golden.

If visiting Denver, (yes next year,) and looking for a place to run the rivers without driving 100 miles and back check them out.  The office is small and easy to manage, the staff is laid back, fun, and knows their safety gear.  They’re only 30 miles from downtown Denver at 2405 Colorado Blvd in Idaho Springs, directly across from Marion’s of the Rockies.  (The absolute best family run restaurant in the state.)

They also do trips on the upper and lower Arkansas Rivers.  www.raftmasters.com


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Tuesday Aug 7 2007

Walden . Colorado

by James | under Colorado . The West , Travel Journals , Travel Photos
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As mentioned below it was a long week at my desk looking staring through the filthy smeared glass at the sweatshop floor. In between processing our mountains of paperwork my coworker printed some maps and Google Earth photos from one of his favorite campsites. So on Saturday myself, Caleb, and our friend Nas rented a truck and headed up to northern Colorado for a night of camping.

We rented this kick ass Ford extended cab truck. Normally I bike around the city and drive a mid size Saturn as to maintain a practical liberal environmental footprint, but this truck was sweet. Bigger than most cars inside, enough room for our gear in the back, six cup holders, huge mirrors - it was a nice way to cruise around the mountains and valleys. Plus our campsite was down a series of county dirt roads, so it was actually necessary as some were quite muddy.

We headed north on 25 and stopped at the Waffle House in Longmont for breakfast. Nas had never been to a Waffle House, and he was quite impressed, (or frightened,) at the efficiency in which orders are shouted back, eggs are tossed and splattered around, and coffee was filled. A full Waffle House on a Saturday morning is a bit like being backstage before a big musical: a cavalcade of many events and everyone contributing to the final presentation. Which in my case was chicken fried steak and three more cups of coffee. And one to go.

Below: Cameron Pass Lake on highway 14. Dirt roads near Walden.


We hit up the grocery store in Fort Collins my standard camp fare: brats, hotdogs, Sunchips, baked beans, and smores. Caleb had the brilliant idea of packing our cooler with dry ice in addition to the regular ice. This kept the bottom half of the cooler extremely cold, colder than Jupiter I believe, and keeps the ice from melting and turning your cooler into a big box of slush by the end of the day.

We headed west on highway 14 out of Fort Collins and LaPorte, and up through Cameron Pass where we stopped at the Summit for a small walk and swim. Well only Caleb swam. Down the pass and through a brief rainstorm we arrived at the small town of Walden. Walden is the main city in Jackson County, Colorado. Bordering southern Wyoming Jackson County has more in common with Wyoming than the Colorado mountains: wide open plains, fields and farmlands with mountains surrounding the valleys.


I had a few maps printed out with various landmarks on each one. Thanks to the nice lady at Tom’s Liquors she clarified our directions and ensured we were headed in the right direction.

Below: Small lake our campsite overlooked.

Flat Lake, our destination, was already occupied by a few campers, so we continued down some muddy dirt roads, took one turn off, and found this place at the end of our second dirt road where nobody was around for miles. After setting up campsite and gathering some kindling we took a small hike. We didn’t get far since Nas noticed that there were wild strawberries and blueberries growing on the ground! We all had the same idea at once. Our Skyy Vodka would now be “strawberry infused vodka”! We had smores, hot dogs, beer, beer, more smores, and after a few hours of “infusing” we strained our vodka through the coffee press and tasted our handiwork. Perfect drinks, and perfect night.


The next morning we made some toast, pop-tarts, and coffee over the fire, then cleaned up and did our dishes in the lake. We went swimming again and headed back into Walden and had lunch at the Antlers Inn Restaurant. You can’t miss it - Main Street is only five blocks long.


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Thursday Jan 25 2007

Arapahoe Basin

by James | under Colorado . The West , Travel Journals , Travel Photos
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Some eye candy from my most recent ski day. After spending the night in Breckenridge we skied at Arapahoe Basin, a smaller resort just a few miles from Keystone.

Although mostly intermediate and expert runs, A-Basin CAN be a good place to practice on it’s limited easy terrain and bunny hill. It’s smaller size and easy parking means it’s easy to separate and meet up, or picnic slopeside without meandering through mazes of outdoor shops and condos just to get to the lift. This trip I took advantage of A-Basin’s manageable size to give snowboarding try. Having skied for 12 years I never had any interest in boarding, but after a few runs down the bunny hill I got a good feel for it, and a sore wrist and tailbone.

Yes I give A-Basin two thumbs up. More pics below:

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Wednesday Jan 24 2007

Breckenridge . Colorado

by James | under Colorado . The West , Travel , Travel Journals
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Hey look a trip report with practical, useful tips from a Breckenridge regular. Perfect for your trip to Summit County.

One of my favorite weekend getaways, summer or winter, is Breckenridge Colorado. Only about 80 miles from Denver it’s the most historic town in Summit County, ranking high with Leadville in terms of rich old boom and bust mining history.

Given the fact that interstate 70 is horrifically congested between Denver and Summit County on the weekends, I almost always ski the early part of the week on Monday through Wednesdays. Even better is getting a room in Breckenridge, where you can treat yourself to a nice meal and drinks, hit the hot tub at night, sleep in til eight and still be one of the first on the slopes.

I’ve stayed a few times at the River Mountain Lodge, a time share in Breckenridge in the heart of downtown along the Blue River. Even though it’s a time share you can simply call and book a room, just like a hotel. I’ve stayed in the studio, and the 1 bedroom plus loft, and although it’s a bit more expensive than a motel off the interstate, the value of what you receive is by far worth it, especially since all units have kitchens. In the summer the sound of the babbling Blue River can be heard from the east facing rooms, and it’s a nice place to wind down after a day of rafting, biking, or hiking.

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Sunday Dec 10 2006

Copper Mountain

by James | under Colorado . The West , Travel Photos
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Copper Mountain is an excellent “mini mega resort”. It’s not quite as overwhelming as Breckenridge or Vail, but large enough that you can spend a few days there with friends and family and have enough variety to suit all levels. The east side of the mountain has mostly intermediate and advanced runs, while the west side has more beginner easy grade heavily tree lined runs.

For a while the only nightlife Copper offered was a few scant restaurants, which necessitated a drive to nearby Breckenridge. Now however there’s plenty of shops, restaurants, and a brewery. I’ve stayed overnight at Copper three times over the past few years and have been satisfied every time.

The on site condos are classified as “bronze”, “silver”, and “gold”, in relation to their proximity to the lifts. The closest “golf” buildings share a large hidden underground parking facility, and are only a few hundred feet from the lifts. If lodging for the night all visitors will be given access to the fitness center, a beautiful granite building housing a spa, weight room, pools, hot tubs, and steam rooms.

Copper Mountain’s official website is www.coppercolorado.com When planning an overnight ski trip from Denver I always see what specials are available.

Also the Summit Stage free bus runs to Breckenridge, so your non-skier friends can head there for the day. More pics below

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Monday Oct 2 2006

Rocky Mountain National Park

by James | under Colorado . The West , Travel Journals , Travel Photos
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I frequently read and contribute to Lonely Planet’s “Thorn Tree” forum, and often asked questions are from Colorado bound travelers regarding places to hike in Rocky Mountain National Park.

My recent hike in October proves it’s one of the best months to visit. Crowds are few, the air is cool and comfortable, and the aspen trees are at their color-changin’ best.

RMNP is about 80 miles from Denver. From downtown Denver Google maps routes it up highway 36, through Boulder, but a faster way to drive is up interstate 25 to highway 66 then west through the small town of Lyons, and take highway 7. (Quickest access to the Wild Basin trails described below).

If traveling to Estes Park take interstate 25 to highway 34, then west through Loveland.

Hiking trails of all skill levels can be found at the Wild Basin trailhead, from a simple stroll to some nearby cascades, to overnight camping, (via longer hikes), at the remote lakes.

Because it’s a national park the entrance fee is $20 per car. During the summer arrive early, as parking spots fill up fast. The lower trails can be busy, but of course the further back into the park you go the more sparse seeing other hikers becomes.

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Monday Jul 17 2006

Central Colorado

by James | under Colorado . The West , Travel , Travel Journals , Travel Photos
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A part of Colorado that’s overlooked by many visitors is the Arkansas River Valley, from Leadville along highways 24 and 285 south to Salida. Most people visiting Colorado in the summer pass through Denver and head west up Interstate 70. This is where the large and well known ski resorts are located, and provide plenty of summer activities too. However the area south of Leadville offers many recreational things to do, with cheaper lodging, and a more rural setting.
An alternative after visiting Breckenridge or neighboring cities in the summer is to travel south on highway 24 through Leadville, and continue south to Buena Vista. The scenic hill climb to Leadville has some great views, and past Leadville the highway follows wide valleys and the railroad into the Arkansas River Valley.

Cloud City Cafe, Main Street Leadville

 Traveling from Denver it’s a two and a half hour drive down highway 285. After climbing some steep hills into the mountains west of Denver the land opens up in wide fields before arriving in Buena Vista. The land along this stretch is a drastic change from the mansions overlooking the hills along interstate 70. Along 285 past Bailey you’ll still see large parcels of land with a single small home or trailer sitting solitarily, with horses occupying the rest of the land. The mostly two lane road passes small local bars, hardware stores, and fishing stores serving the nearby South Platte River. It’s a much more rural and slower feel than speeding through the steep canyons on I-70.

Small motels can be found in Buena Vista or Salida. There’s plenty of camping sites along the Arkansas River, and up into Independence Pass, (the shortcut to Aspen), and in Cottonwood Pass, although high elevation campsites such as the one we recently stayed at can get chilly at night.

Buena Vista is the best base for recreational activities. A small town in the center of the valley it makes a great location for hiking, rafting, or climbing activities. Several rafting companies can be found along the Arkansas River.


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Monday Jul 10 2006

MS 150 Bike Tour

by James | under Biking , Colorado . The West
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July 8 and 9 I joined our work team and rode in the MS150 bike tour in support of Multiple Sclerosis. About 2,500 people rode in the two day tour, and traveled from Denver to the Royal Gorge Bridge in southern Colorado. Despite biking to work daily I’ve never ridden this long a distance in two days, so on the second day it felt great to complete the steepest and most difficult last 15 miles up to the bridge and back. We did 80 miles the first day, and the second day did 70 miles.

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Friday Jun 30 2006

Vedauwoo . Wyoming

by James | under Colorado . The West , Travel Journals
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Only for a night, but our camping trip was a nice change from the hectic cities we’ve visited over the past few months.

Only 120 miles from Denver you can find endless plains, open interstates, and trucks that are actually used for hauling hay and farming equipment. The blue skies give way to dark clouds and rain, and a shift in the wind brings back the blue, over and over throughout the day. The most scenic sight is what’s NOT there: No garish big box stores, no long string of family chain restaurant with their identifiable red neon stripe, and very little else except for the occasional sound of the trains rushing by.

Each time I drive north of Denver I’m shocked at the extreme pace of development. 10 years ago when I moved here the area north of 120th Street in Denver was nothing but farmland all the way up to Fort Collins.

Now when I take a trip north I see the former fields and prairies succumbed to seas of asphalt parking lots. The car dealerships, monotonous chain restaurants, and the typical big box stores are planted in the center, as if they fell that way completed from the sky.

Fortunately the rapid sprawl gives way to wide open spaces north of Fort Collins. Crossing the border into Wyoming at highway 287 you’re greeted with liquor stores and beat up pick up trucks that actually are used on farms hauling supplies.


About 20 miles north of Colorado at interstate 80 is Laramie, where we picked up some hot dogs, firewood, and last minute supplies for our camping trip. Vedauwoo is about 15 miles east of Laramie on 80, and is a large area of land with amazing rock formations, making it a destination for climbers.

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Wednesday Jun 7 2006

Garden of the Gods

by James | under Colorado . The West , Travel Journals , Travel Photos
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Garden of the Gods . Colorado Springs, CO

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