Marken is a small fishing village on an island about 23 kilometers northeast of Amsterdam. It’s part of the North Holland area called “Waterland,” and connected to the mainland by a 4 km long dike.

It’s an easy day trip by bike, but if you’re riding a single speed made for the city you can expect a bit of work if the winds pick up.

I rode from my apartment in the Jordaan neighborhood down to the Central Station and along the modern waterfront.

Getting a bit lost along the way I passed through the small neighborhood of Zeeburg and over two large bridges (with separate bike paths,) which connects North Holland.

After crossing under the A10 motorway I was officially in the country and followed the signs north while studying farmhouses sitting amid long trenches of water. I stopped for a coffee at the town of Durgerdam (above photo) then proceeded up through Uitdam and on to Kruisbaakweg, the road which sits atop the dike.

Being mid March there wasn’t much activity in Marken except for a local wedding party, but after exploring the nooks and crannies of the town, as well as the small museum and modern library, I settled down for a burger and a couple Amstels at the one open restaurant.

The extremely narrow streets, small houses, and cobblestone walkways reminded me of the island from “The Prisoner.” Thankfully I was allowed to bike home without being consumed by a giant white sphere.

Be seeing you!

More Marken and Waterland photos

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And of course what’s an article about biking in Amsterdam without a few videos to share with my fellow cycling geeks at Bike Forums. This first video is traveling along Haarlemmerweg (or the S103,) from the Sloterdijk Station west of Amsterdam into the city center.

The second: In the narrow streets of The Jordaan, a neighborhood just west of the city center and home to the Westerkerk (church) and the Ann Frank House.

More videos:

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Being an advocate of utility cycling and a promoter of biking as regular transportation I’m certainly biased in writing this, but I believe that even with Amsterdam’s excellent system of trams and pedestrian friendly streets biking really is the most efficient method of getting around. With a bike you can cover a lot of ground in a short time - turning a 25 minute walk into a five minute ride.

When blessed with good weather the network of paths outside of the city can make for great day trips to outlying towns. Signs clearly label bike routes, or “fietspads,” and the distances to towns, cities, and landmarks. While some paths parallel busy motorways others traverse quiet farms or provide extensive views from atop dikes.

Considering costs, renting a bike for a weeks won’t run much more than you’d pay after using up several “strippenkaarts” hopping on and off trams and buses.

As most know the Dutch don’t see cycling as recreational pastime or hobby restricted to sunny weekend mornings. Biking as transportation is a regular part of life, anytime of day, rain or shine. When watching bikes filled with groceries and kids swoosh down streets it appears cute and utopian - but visitors are well served to respect this method of transportation and follow basic traffic rule. Being mindful of bike right-of-ways and keeping your head on a swivel will keep you and your fellow cyclists safe.

The majority of streets have bike lanes on the sides, or adjacent to the street buffered by parking or medians. If lacking a designated lane then bikes share the road with cars. Along the smaller brick streets that hug the canals space is a bit tighter and shared with pedestrians. However if you prefer a slower pace then following the canals will give you beautiful views of the city, and you’ll be tempted to stop for a picture every time you crest the small bridges.

It may sound harrowing; but anyone skilled in basic vehicular cycling will do just fine. Motorists and tram operators are observant to pedestrians and cyclists. Many local intersections don’t even have signals or stop signs - rather they allow cars and bikes to decide for themselves via eye contact or the “give to the right” rule.

One infrastructure rule I quickly learned was that the bike signals are located on the posts directly in FRONT of you. I and even other locals tended to pull PAST the signal - and have to crane our necks back to watch it turn green.

On one busy intersection I mistakenly pulled into the street because I was watching the signal on the NEXT sign post. This netted me some well deserved honks, but lesson quickly learned.

There are many of bike rental establishments including the popular chain Mac Bike. Any place is fine for a spin around Vondelpark or jaunt outside of town - however if you plan on keeping a bike for an extended period as I did you’ll garner a bit more respect on the streets if you blend in with a regular bike, rather than one garnishing the logo of a rental company.

“Bike City,” was recommended to me as a good place to rent. They’re in the Jordaan neighborhood at Bloemgracht 68, near Westerkerk and the Ann Frank House. I rented a solid bike seven speed with a wheel lock and heavy chain for about 75 Euro for the week. It served me perfectly in the city and outside of town too. Like their site says their bikes are inconspicuous so you won’t be noticed as a tourist - and with their heavy duty locks you can use your bike as a regular means of transportation - running errands and seeing the sights.

Unlike cities that are overwhelmed with the noises of honking taxis and smoke spewing buses Amsterdam is remarkably quiet. And so is their transportation. Trams glide along tracks and bikes breeze by you - which means it’s important to be vigilant of your surroundings. But with those cautions I can’t think of a better way to see this beautiful city and experience it as the locals do.

More tips:

-Whether biking or walking - keep your head on a swivel.

-Don’t walk on designated bike lanes.
-Cross tram tracks at a 90 degree angle.
- You don’t want to get your wheels caught in them.
-If you need to stop (or stop suddenly) to check your map and get your bearings pull out of traffic.
-Lock your bike. Always.

Next post: Day trips by bike outside of Amsterdam.

More photos here

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With apologies to Chicago, a city I love, but it takes some time away and a refreshed eye to realize that the cramped corridors, filthy corners, and lackadaisical employees shuffling listlessly about in certain U.S. airports to make me realize that we could do so much better.

In fairness I’m writing this while the agonizing stories of Heathrow’s Terminal 5 are making news, and the U.S. certainly has some newer airports to be proud of as well: Detroit is a wonder to walk through and extremely efficient. Denver, now 13 years old is more crowded than ever but still maintains an airy, open feel and has plenty of room to grow. And many regional airports are a breeze to navigate and showcase local flavor of their area.

However in contrast many of our international gateway airports like Chicago and LAX appear straight out of the Soviet era when compared to the gleaming gems of other ports. (And I haven’t even considered Asia in this.)

After spending a few days solo in Amsterdam I returned to Amsterdam’s Schiphol airport to pick up my sister and our guide Lili. Fretting about being late as always I arrived early enough in the morning to wander around and explore the facility. Some things that stood out to me:

This great idea. What’s the first errand you need to complete after a long stay away from home? Pick up some perishables of course. Schiphol has a full supermarket, allowing you to stock up your (tiny European) fridge upon return. And an adjacent liquor store too!

Left: In pier three I noticed dual jetways, although not used for our United flight. These were implemented at a few United gates in Denver for a while last year, but abandoned after a rear portion collapsed onto the wing of a plane. For some reason they work here.

Right: Almost ridiculously large signage everywhere. Arrival areas 1, 2, and 3 all exit into the same central hall, with ramps and elevators to the below train station. After clearing passport control departing passengers are treated to an enormous transit lounge with a plethora of restaurants and shops under one roof.

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That line is actually from the movie “Sweet Home Alabama”  where Reese Witherspoon sees an old friend in her hometown bar and says “You Have a Baby… In a Bar…“    Not worth renting - but its a witty quip.

First my apologies to my faithful readers for the two week gap in posts.  You see I’ve been traveling around The Netherlands taking tons of photos of things I love:  bikes, trains, food, and architecture of modern and old.  

Amsterdam is an incredible city.  With the never ending canals, cafes, clean streets, and bikes everywhere its a utopia.  But why haven’t I been blogging every night from my trusty Asus computer?    Well - I’ve had a companion with me.   A few days after my arrival my sister and my beautiful niece Lili joined me in Amsterdam to continue our Dutch adventure.   Time to start waking up at 6am instead of going to bed at 6am!

I’ve learned that traveling with kids doesn’t lend time to much else.    I’ve always been the person silently praying to be spared in 29A watching a group of kids shuffle down the isle towards me.   I’ve always been the annoyed one when sitting in a quiet coffee shop and the strollers steamroll in.   And I’ve always been dumbfound at the mall seeing the amount of gear parents need to carry with them for a simple outing.  

So why on earth would I want to travel with a 15 month old?  Well I don’t see her much here in the states, and as you can see by the photo - she is perfect.  Reason enough.  So in addition to driving around the countryside and cycling in the city I’ve made a new friend and travel buddy - and she’s just as interested in people, places, and city life as I am.

And I even managed to keep my mouth shut as a parent on the plane lamented Southwest’s ceasing their family first boarding.

More photos and stories on the way…

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Yes we are still writing need to start writing our trip reports from Munich and the Czech Republic. I’m sure my seven regular readers are disappointed at not seeing a ton of great pictures from my snazzy drop down menus above. But it’s easier to post bits and fragments from various places we visited as I have time.

Among them? Prague’s Pivovarsky Dum Restaurant and Pub. After arriving in Prague tired from a day of traveling, as well as an unexpected train change, (a reason to check back for that story,) we arrived Prague’s main station and took the metro to Miss Sophie’s Hotel in Prague 2.

I had been looking forward to eating a hearty Czech meal and sample some beer. The girl at the front desk told us to walk a few blocks toward the river to the Pivovarsky Dum. We were seated family style, meaning you and your chair share a large table with other diners. Everyone there was in a great mood, and a boisterous Dominoes game was in progress a few tables away.

I had read about Czech food before I left, which is basically summed up by meat meat and more meat. I eat healthy at home, but love indulging in some more fattening plates now and then. Plus when you’re traveling you’re usually walking most of the day, so it’s well justified. Check out part of their dinner menu: It’s typical of most restaurants in the region. The prices are in Czech Crowns, and the two prices represent the two portion sizes.

CZECH CUISINE CLASSICS

*Brewer´s Goulash with Bohemian Dumplings 115 185
Roast Pork with Bohemian Dumplings and Sauerkraut 115 185
Beef in Candelsauce with Bohemian Dumplings 115 185
*Drinker´s Zesty Pork Medallions with Rice 115 185
Wiener Schnitzel with Potatoes 115 185
*Pork with Thyme in Beer Gravy with Spaetzles 115 185
Bohemian Platter 115 185
(Roast and smoked pork, sauerkraut, red cabbage)
Potato Dumplings Stuffed with Smoked Pork, Sauerkraut 115 155
Venison Fillet in Cranberry Sauce, Bohemian Dumplings 165 255
Hunter´s Roll with Potato Pancakes and Red Cabbage 165 255
Venison Ragout on Red Wine, Potato Croquettes 165 255
Rabbit with Garlic, Potato Dumplings and Spinach 165 255
*Maltster´s Rabbit, Spaetzles 165 255I had the Bohemian dumplings and sauerkraut the first night, and roast pork the second. A fine food connoisseur I am not, but eating this hearty fare and putting down the (way too easy to drink) beers was a perfect way to wrap up a long day of traveling through the German and Czech countryside.

Pivovarsky Dum is at Jecna Lipova 15 120 44 Praha 2. Phone 296 216 666 pivodum@iol.cz They’re open from 11:30am to 11:30pm

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I always need an e-mail and coffee fix before starting my day, at home and abroad.  (Feel free to post any internet addiction links below thanks.)  During my stay in Munich I frequented “Coffee Fellows” almost every morning.  This stylish chain has locations throughout Munich and Germany.

Most importantly, the computers are clean, fast running, and secure.  When sitting down at a PC station the last thing you want to see is a bunch of crapware loaded on the desktop and taskbar, with visions of keystroke recorders dancing in your head.  The staff is pleasant and attentive, and “my” location across from the Easy Palace Hotel at the Hauptbahnhof was the most spacious I’ve seen.  

A wide selection of sandwiches and desserts are available on the main floor, which has comfy couches, plenty of newspapers and magazines, and an outdoor seating area on pedestrian only street of Schutzenstrasse.  The upstairs has 40 or so PC stations in a halogen lit large room.  Perfect for wrapping up your travel e-mails or backing up your photos.

Locations at Coffee-Fellows.de

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The touristy by day, tranquil by night medieval village of Ceský Krumlov is the last place I expected to find a bar appearing to be straight out of the “Buffy the Vampire Slayer” set warehouse. During the busy months this dark cellar is a perfect spot to get away from the crowds, as most of the tour bus ducklings wouldn’t dare attempt follow their leader down the twisting narrow stone steps.

Despite the vampire’s lair design, the crowd isn’t all goth and underworld. Live bands play on weekends, and it’s frequented by locals and backpackers alike. The main room is decked out in skeletons, cobwebs, bats, and all things macabre. There’s an equally gory separate private room for groups as well.

The best drink? By far the Mint or Strawberry Julep which our bartender took great time and care making. The crushed mint pieces in this delicious drink made for a tiny swamp inside our glass. One of the best drinks ever.

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Arriving by train in the old town of Cesky Krumlov we took a taxi to the town center, about three miles, and hunted around for a place to spend the next two days.  We hadn’t made any reservations as we knew the town was full of pensions, or the European equivalent of a U.S. bed and breakfast.

We started in the main square but found it busy and crowded, so we walked through some alleys until we crossed the river.  We knocked on the door of the Pension u Kaplièky, but received no response.  We continued walking around a corner and up a hill, but realized we were about a mile from the city by then.  We returned and passed the u Kaplièky once more, admiring it’s big back yard adjacent to the river.  We found the “real” door and met a nice woman, her husband, and  their son of about 10 or so. 

Inside of the old church were two beautifully appointed guest suites.  Ours was a room in the front half of the second floor, up a refreshingly cool walkway inside the old stone building.  Communication was challenging as neither of us speak Czech,  but with Caleb’s German we managed to figure out the rate, and we were handed the keys with a smile.

The best part of our two days came daily at 8am, when we were brought in a cart of fresh breakfast for us.  Ham and cheese croissiants, scrambled eggs, bananas, tea, pancakes with powdered sugar, and pastries.   I’ve never had a breakfast that filling before. 

Unfortunately I didn’t recall our the names of our hosts, but when I find it I’ll post it should anyone want to make a reservation.  They’re wonderful people, and you’ll have an excellent stay. 

Info:  Pension u kaplièky, Linecká 60, Ceský Krumlov 381 01, Telephone: +420 380 714 123, +420 380 712 844 Mobile phone: +420 606 434 090

ukaplicky@ckrumlov.cz   www.ckrumlov.cz/ukaplicky

Below: An alley near the hotel, and our room.

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Having procrastinated in purchasing authentic German kitsch for our friends in the U.S. I kept my eyes open during my bike ride Sunday for something to bring back home. After relaxing at the English Gardens until I found Brown’s Tea Bar for lunch in adjacent Schwabing. After gobbling up some coffee and scones I purchased some of their teas and jams to take with me. The lady was wonderful to talk with as I recanted my positive impressions of my time in Munich. My tea was packaged on the spot, and in addition to surprising friends with a nice, well, British present from Munich, the tea made my messenger bag smell better than it ever has. Take that dirty socks.

They have two locations in Munich. Türkenstrasse 60 in Schwabing and the Victorian House at Frauenstrasse 14, near Marienplatz. Online at victorianhouse.de

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Having not completed my full trip reports on Munich, Prague, and the Czech region, here’s some various photos of trains and subways. These are the S-Bahn, U-Bahn, and main train station in Munich.

S-Bahn regional train

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View of town from the hill

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Villages between the towns of Ceske Budejovice and Cesky Krumlov, in the southern region of the Czech Republic.

I love how each house had it’s own garden and firewood stacked next to it. Very green and self sufficient!

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While escaping the touristy Old Town district of Prague we wandered north to Prague 7, home of the National Technical Museum and the Prague Market. 

Not much was happening at the beer garden overlooking the river, but located in the shadow of the museum was the restaurant and bar “Prague Cats”.   After eating our share of pork, sauerkraut, and cabbage during the first two nights in Prague we were searching for some lighter fare.  Prague Cats features excellent poultry and salads, at non-touristy prices.

Their dessert menu even features “Hot Wild Fruit”.  Jerri Blank would be pleased!  We returned to Prague Cats a few nights later but after waiting a half hour for our dessert were told it was waiting to be made behind a group of five. Still next time in Prague I’d give them another visit.  They’re at Letohradska 775 in Prague 7, behind the museum.

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Ceský Krumlov  More town photos Photos from outside town

After a few busy days in Prague seeing the town, historic sights, and nightlife, we boarded a three hour train south to the historic town of Cesky Krumlov.

As with our Munich-Prague trip, what we thought would be a simple one seat train trip turned into a longer ordeal due to some track repair. In the town of Ceske Budejovice we deboarded and the entire populace of the train switched to a few motor coaches. We were driven south through some towns about 50 kilometers where we boarded a second train to carry us to Cesky Krumlov. I didn’t mind the bus portion too much as it gave me a chance to see the roads and road signs close up, and pass through a few small towns.

The Cesky Krumlov train station is about four miles from the city center. We found a cab and wound our way through the maze of streets until reaching the historic square.

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