The handheld technology that’s evolved over the past seven to ten years is astounding. In the early to middle part of the last decade I could never imagine I’d have access to global maps (down to street detail), transit schedules, hotel and restaurant reviews, flight schedules check-in, travel apps and so much more right in my hand.

In fact when I visit a new city in the U.S. I never even pack a map. Google maps functions perfectly everywhere, and even includes transit schedules in many major cities. I can land in a strange city and plan my route from the airport to downtown while the plane is taxiing to the gate.

The downside is you can become very dependent on it. Or at least I have. When I travel outside the U.S. I’m forced to give up my constant web access unless I uprade to an expensive plan that includes data roaming. My budget says no thanks. Like most of my friends my data roaming is always turned off upon landing outside my home borders. With data and downloads at $19.95 a megabyte I don’t care to come home to a $25,000 phone bill.

But my smartphone is still extremely useful overseas thanks to the prevalence of public and private WiFi . I use Skype for my calls, which has an iPhone app so well integrated you forget you’re using Skype and not just making standard calls. (It even incorporates your contact lists.) I do admit to texting at 50 cents a text, but do so sparingly. (That is useful for maintaining contact when traveling with friends.) But above all, any WiFi signal for an iPhone or any smartphone opens the same access doors you have back home. In most major cities WiFi is extremely easy to find and use, so long as you know and take precaution against connecting to unsecured signals.

When abroad and opting out of data roaming, one feature I often use is the iPhone screenshot feature. This takes a photo of whatever is on your iPhone screen, then saves it to your photos for future reference. You simply hold down down the center button while quickly pressing the top (power) button. Your screen flashes as the screenshot is saved. I didn’t know about or use this feature until a year ago, and find some people who aren’t aware of this marvelous tool.

It’s a phenomenal tool if you want to retrieve an important document on your iPhone, but won’t have web access. For example an email with directions; rather than printing and carrying paper, or copying and pasting it to the “notes” app, simply take a screenshot and look at the photo.

My most recent and most useful example: A week ago I did a couple road trips in the Netherlands. Unable to find a decent map at my Denver library I planned to just purchase one at a gas station there. Before leaving I Google mapped the route from Amsterdam to Zeeland, which involved several busy and congested freeway interchanges around Rotterdam. I simply took screenshots of the route, and close up shots of the important interchanges, and saved them one by one to my phone. (Fortunately I was the passenger and able to fully concentrate as navigator.) I never even needed the a paper map.

Scrolling through the photos of the maps it reminded me of the old days when AAA would create a “Triptik” for their members – a small rectangular booklet with maps and turn by turn directions that you’d leaf through while driving. Even without web access this proved to be an amazingly easy way to not get lost and save money on maps or car rental GPS.

As shown below I’ve also used it for other maps – by taking a screenshot at the apartment with WiFi, then referencing it while out on the town.

With that disclaimer, my limited and pleasant experience based on two easyJet flightst:

I purchased a round trip from Madrid to Marrakesh, Morocco for about $70 USD. easyJet’s competitor Ryanair was offering fares for a mere $35 US. Obviously I wanted to avoid Ryanair and its atrocious reputation, so I opted to pay a little more. But seeing as these to fares were rock bottom, and Ryanair’s flights were scheduled an hour AFTER easyJet, I bought the Ryanair flight too as my own unique type of travel insurance.

easyJet has a small to medium size operation at Madrid Barajas, in the old terminal 2 and 3.  Efficient once there with clean gates and nearby amenities, but like the U.S. gates it’s a very long walk from the Metro Station, located at the other end of Terminal 3

easyJet’s seating is similar to Southwest – No assigned seating and first come first choice. You may purchase the “Speedyboarding” option for about 10 Euros, which I thought a good deal. It netted me first in line with about 10 other early boarders, and I managed to get exit rows on both flights.  In boarding the aircraft there are no numbers or order like Southwest, everybody just lines up like they’re waiting at the Post Office.    Oddly, in Madrid, no one line up in advanced and all stayed seated.  As soon as they announced pre-boarding only THEN did everyone rush to the door.

Carryon: Like other European carriers they’re far stricter than the U.S. carriers, where many agents turn a blind eye to giant bulging bags some drag down the jetway and bounce between the seats. You’re allowed ONE carry-on, and one means one. I usually have a book/laptop and a small messenger out before boarding, so as not block the aisle retrieving things.  Prior to boarding I was to consolidate them all into my rollerbag and prove it could fit in the sizers.

Both flights were uneventful.  Flying across the Straight of Gibralter this hazy day I could just as easily been on a flight from Albuquerque to Vegas.   On board service consisted of drinks and buy on board snacks, and a pass through of the duty free cart.

Departing Marrakesh was a little less organized as we boarded via dual airstairs (which I enjoy) but we were first queued up outside on the ramp.   Again no complaints – it was a beautiful day and I love planespotting, especially when I have the opportunity to be this close and see some foreign (to me) carriers.   However this could be uncomfortable for some in the Moroccan summers.

I would easily fly easyJet again, and their fare were far below Iberia, Royal Air Moroc and other carriers that served that route. Note the crummy stairs that Ryanair boards with. (lower right photo)

Quick Euro tip:  In Europe the overhead bins are called “lockers.”

A few tourists have had less then stellar experiences, but if you were to pore over those internet accounts you’d imagine yourself backed into an dead end alley with dozens of kids grabbing at your wallet while emptying your pockets and cutting your camera off your neck. I chuckled at Rick Steve’s guidebook describing Spain daytrippers to Tangiers appearing “like hostages, clutching their bags and big purses in front of them.”

That said each city has its own unique minor warnings. Morocco is a very safe country, and crime against tourists and travrlers is minimal and mostly opportunistic. One of these hustles involve the ease of getting lost. Even for the geographically skilled the streets and alleys of Marrakesh can prove confusing, with literally mazes of streets leading to forks and dead ends. If you make time it can be fun to explore, but if you’re trying to get home or be somewhere you’re best served to leave a trail of mental breadcrumbs. To get to my Riad I had a list of checkpoints, including a large mosque and this restaurant sign I called the “McDonald’s” sign because it had a large M in the center.

My first jaunt out I saw a sign for a cafe on a main street, followed it around some corners and found myself peering into a lady’s kitchen, thinking it was the restaurant. She pointed me in the right direction, but I found it closed. Retreating back down the alley that same lady asked if she could cook me something. Obviously my tourist dollars were a goal, but the gesture was memorable. After all I don’t think she’d invite just anyone into her home.

Getting lost however proves an opportunistic scam for some, a popular trick being to act as a guide to help you to your hotel or location, then leading you in circles or extra blocks for more money. It’s best to turn down offers of help when you’re studying and rotating your map. When a local’s directions are a must, the solution to this is to ask people in a store, or one who’s behind a counter or stall, thus having no incentive to misguide you.

While walking to the central market and back daily I passed by a restaurant and one morning stopped in for a bottle of water. One younger gentleman in particular spoke English well, and I liked the food, so I wound up returning two more times for lunch and dinner. During a late lunch we were chatting and I was showing him some photos on my camera screen. He recognized a nondescript man pushing a bike – then explained to me he was an undercover officer, patrolling to watch for any shenanigans against tourists. Obviously the city has an incentive to keep tourists safe from scams, but this was above and beyond in my opinion.

I can only recall one single instance, in the souk, where after declining to view some wares the salesperson followed me longer than I cared for. I switched my polite pleasantries to a firm “NO” and that was the end of it. One annoying instance out of hours and hours among vendors, but easier to escape him than leave a car dealership here in the U.S.

I wouldn’t say all the warnings I read go overboard, but excessive worrying and reading can taint a city’s image and the way you approach it. I met plenty of friendly locals and had a great introduction to the city during dinner with a local. More to come…

A coworker of mine has a long time friend who’s lived in Marrakesh for 20 years. We exchanged emails leading up to my trip, and she informed me about the festival and to “not be surprised at live sheep being driven around town on motorbikes or cars.” She was kind enough to meet for dinner my first night in town for wonderful meal and informative introduction to the city.

While Tuesday was bustling at the Souk, (the mazes of markets stalls in the center of the city), with families buying food and supplies for the holiday, I was told Wednesday would be a slow day in the city with many shops and restaurants closed while families spent time together.

The owner of the Riad I stayed at (report to come) arranged a guide who didn’t mind working the holiday and took myself and two girls from Australia, also staying at the Riad, on a day trip to the Lower Atlas Mountains.

He drove us outside the city, up some canyon and mountain roads (very similar to Colorado) and after a few photo stops we arrived at the town of Achayn, where the elegant Kasbah du Toubkal Hotel is situated on a hill with views of the Atlas Mountains and Berber villages on the hillsides.

Our guide Mohamed and his family lived in one of the villages a short walk from the hotel. After time spent relaxing amid the peaceful rooftops staring at the jaw dropping views Mohamed returned and took us for a walk through the villages where we saw families preparing their sheep, and to a waterfall a short hike up the canyon.

We didn’t ask for or expect what happened next: He took the three of us to his home for a meal. We removed our shoes and sat on the comfortable rugs atop his roof, with the same incredible views of the mountains and valley. His father made mint tea, taking 10 minutes to add and filter then mint and sugar. After tea the family prepared a table on the rooftop, and we were served a dish of lamb, with dates and walnuts. We ate it with the bread, but of course reluctantly used the forks on hand. We had an onion and olive salad with pomegranate for dessert.

Mohamed is one of seven children, with most of his sisters married. We met his Father, Mother and cousins He spoke English very well, and was able to tell us about his family’s history and their home. Of course he and his mother wondered why on earth the two girls, a few years younger than myself, were not married yet.

I’m grateful to this family for having me over to see a real Berber home in the mountains, and to share one of the best meals and visits that I’ve ever experienced.

While easyJet is also billed as a budget carrier with a la carte fees, their reputation is a bit less tarnished. They’ve also been the focus of the UK TV show Airline, (the equivalent to A&E’s show starring Southwest airlines,) so after watching five minutes of any episode you’re a pro on what to expect.

Prices between the two are extremely competive. The screen shot below is from today, but a few weeks back when researching Madrid, Spain to Marrakesh, Morocco, Ryanair had a ridiculously cheap airfare of 17 Euro. $30 to fly to another continent is quite tempting. But knowing their reputation, and the fact I’d be getting stuck with a possible a carry on fee at the airport, easyJet’s fare for about 50 Euro (about $70) US was the obvious choice. (And pulled today it now matches Ryanair’s $37 price.)

Like any other well organized traveler I attempt to foresee problems, plan ahead and create contingencies for them. I try and fly on carriers with multiple flight options, however both easyJet and Ryanair each only have one Madrid-Marrakesh flight per day. A cancellation would shave an entire day off my short four day stay in Marrakesh.

When I looked at the flight schedules I saw that the Ryanair flight departed a few hours after the easyJet flight which I planned to purchase. For the Ryanair price of $30 I could purchase some “insurance” or “protection”, so if the easyJet flight was cancelled I could simply walk over to the Ryanair flight and still make Marresh a few hours later, minus whatever fees Ryanair would stick me with.

Same schedule on the return: easyJet leaves at 1:05pm, Ryanair at 3:30. What a great backup! Now there could be problems ditching an outbound flight on easyJet and attemping to use a return, but if you explained that your outbound flight was cancelled and you made other arrangements it may be passable. And if denied the Ryanair flight is waiting just two hours later. Either way I now have a backup plan in case easyJet turns out to be difficult that day.

It can’t be a good thing that my confidence in airlines is so low that I book two tickets on different carriers with the expectation that one will fail, but in this case it makes sense, and will allow me to make the most of my time in Marrakesh.

easyJet photo by Wikicommons

I’ve found myself doing less and less research before going to a new place. During some fall cleaning I came across a 2001 binder that I created for a trip to Germany. I print and organized, hole punched and all, 30 pages of restaurants, places, bars and sights to see. I can’t ever imagine doing that now. I certainly know the city overview and don’t land somewhere blind, however thanks to the internet I can easily find places and events upon arrival and get local opinions and advice – rather than dragging guidebooks and overly planned rigid schedules. Plus WiFi equipped phones let you download maps and guides beforehand or on the go, eliminating bulky fold up maps.

Another reason I shy away from schedules and itineraries: When I travel I tend to stay in one place longer than most. It’s the only way to really get to know the city and its neighborhoods. Hopping around Europe spending two days here and two and a half days there really only gives you a chance to see the main sights and not the true experience of living there, even if just temporarily. Of course some could say the same about myself only have two weeks at a time. When I spent two weeks at the Joordan neighborhood of Amsterdam I even got a card to the video rental store. I’ll do some day trips and side trips but I find it’s far more relaxed to return “home” to a place instead hopping to four different cities a trip. If you miss out on a big sight, or find a fun weekend event to attend, or just meet some new locals or friends to have dinner with – then you aren’t running off leaving a place behind as you’re just getting into it. And it’s less stuff to lug around if you keep an apartment in one place for your entire stay.

So Madrid it is, and my side trip this time is to Morocco. I’ve never been to any part of Africa, and airfares from Madrid are quite affordable. I started reading up on which city to visit: Tangiers, Casablanca or Marrakesh. Tangiers is painted as a transient port city with day trippers constantly coming and going from the Gibralter ferries. Casablanca is said to be big, busy and sprawling. I had read good things about Marrakesh, and what cinched it was the advice of some locals. Locals who just happen to be representing their home country in Florida.

This summer I was visiting Epcot Center’s World Showcase, where a select number of countries and their Disney approved foods and merchandise are each crammed into a space the size of a Best Buy in a semi circle around a huge lake. The United States is at the center, with its colossal colonial mansion lording over all.

Read my full review of Epcot here.

Knowning Morocco might be an option I spent time in Epcot’s fake Morocco. The restaurants and gift shops employ people native to that country. It’s a very good idea since they can work overseas for a season, they already have the accents, and can correct the misconceptions visitors on any misconceptions about their country. (Such as Italy not having mimes on every corner.)

When I met real Moroccans working in fake Morocco I discretely glanced around to make sure that a good number of other tourists were in earshot, and in a not too smug tone informed them that THIS American would in fact be visiting REAL Morocco come this fall, and sought advice on where to go. My three new Moroccan friends unanimously suggested Marrakesh. So Marrakesh it is!

Research item two: The New York Times had a four part “Guide to Marrakesh” last month. While some of the places are a bit fancy and over the top for me, it was a good summary nonetheless.

Speaking of over the top: Research item three: I recently watched Sex and the City 2. (I accidentally ordered it on Netflix – honest.) The fab four heads to Abu Dhabi in an all out appalling celebration of every middle east stereotype imaginable. Spoiler alert: Samantha the sexpot has to sneak out of the country in traditional Muslim garb. Now, since the United Arab Emirates wanted no part of this nonsense they actually filmed in Marrakesh. The movie contains scenes set over the city including the modern but retro looking airport, the Medina (market), and scenes out in the desert.

Better than all of these? Turns out my coworker has an old friend living and teaching in Marrakesh, so I’m quite enthused about her invitation to dinner and drinks.

There you go: Travel planning at its finest. Updates from real Morocco sometime this fall.

That’s not to say you can’t find locally grown fruits and veggies in the U.S., or that the similar big box processes aren’t found in a Mexican Super Walmart or Gigante, but coming from a local market where eggs are so fresh they don’t need to be refrigerated, it’s a change. If I’m staying somewhere for more than a couple nights I always prefer to rent an apartment or hostel with a kitchen – and make my first stop is to a local market. It’s cost effective, fun and doesn’t force you to eat every meal at a restaurant.

At local markets you notice the differences. Last fall in Argentina I saw box delivery truck with a fully stripped cow hanging by its legs in the back, stopped in front of a restaurant early morning. While it was surprising to see I realized and appreciated this meat was probably on a farm just days ago, and after being processed was now being delivered to butchers and restaurants, rather than being stripped down in a factory and hauled across the country on a refrigerated semi truck.

Meanwhile back in the states we have seven step placards on how to wash our hands.

In April I had just spent a week in and around Puerto Vallarta. (I somehow wound up going here three times in 11 months with different people.) I tip well and am not a high maintenance diner, but I do have one habit in restaurants: I like to pick where I sit. I certainly won’t hog a huge table for two people, but if I spot a quiet table back in the corner versus being seated in the center or middle of traffic flow I don’t hesitate to ask to me moved. Friends with server experience have told me this is annoying since they attempt to evenly spread patrons to each person’s section. That’s completely understandable, but if I’m spending my hard earned money on a nice dinner I want the best possible experience.

In Mexico, or in any local restaurant who’s appreciative of your business, should you say “That table looks perfect,” the host will usher you over, pull out your chair and say “Enjoy your meal.” A meal is an event, and it’s understood that the ambiance is part of that meal. That’s exactly what happens every time at the Espresso Ristorante, a favorite Italian place pictured above in Vallarta.

Jump back to my last return to the U.S., when in less than 20 minutes after clearing customs I was reminded of the glaring corporate lifestyle. We had a few hours to kill in Phoenix before my Mom, Caleb and I connected to our respective cities, and I walked us down to the Chili’s (US Airways terminal) to relax and have a beer.

My Mom wanted to sit on the faux “patio,” or the quiet area looking into the mall like terminal. I told the host we were going to grab the small table and an extra chair. “No No,” he said. “The two seat tables must remain only two so servers and patrons can pass through.” Understanding that, I told him the table was at the end of the aisle and there were no other customers in that area. He gave us a pained look, so not wanting to be “that guy” I acquiesced and followed him to a booth in the noisy interior, where I learned the names of toy dinosaurs from a rambunctious five year old on the other side of the half wall.

It certainly didn’t ruin my evening, or make me hate Chili’s, but abruptly transitioning from a relaxed less rigid atmosphere to an establishment governed by well meaning rules is a stark and noticeable contrast. While a schematic of rules and operational methods benefit the greater good of corporate continuity it often creates obstacles to simple enjoyment when applied in a non-logical manner…

I believe a good response to customer service is “If that makes you happy, doesn’t bother anyone else, we’ll be happy to oblige!” More companies should make their their mantra.

Every Sunday in Buenos Aires you can visit “Paseo de Recoleta,” at the large park near the Recoleta Cemetary and Señora del Pilar Church.

My travel mate Lou and I were wandering around here on a sunny October Sunday, taking in the live music in between perusing belts, jackets and other leather goods, while appreciating the relaxed atmosphere. Everyone was having a great time strolling the booths or picnicking on the green listening to live music.    These were exactly the type of crafts and souvenirs my friend wanted to find. He reminded me this again, the first time a week earlier when chiding me for purchasing an “Evita” coffee mug at a Florida Street crap shack.

I bought a few shirts for my niece Lili, a belt, and when I saw a stylish single fold leather wallet I immediately knew it was a perfect replacement for my current wallet of 10 years.  It was soft suede leather with a sharp emblem on the side.  The gentlemen selling them made them all, and I knew it would be an excellent personal investment.  More so than an Evita coffee mug.

Back home I transferred over my contents and showed off the craftsmanship to friends and coworkers.  The weeks after my return were busy training and getting to know C.J., a three year old special needs rescue chihuahua that had mysteriously found his way to our door from the Adams County animal shelter.

A month later I found my wallet on the floor next to a chair I never sit in. “Strange,” I thought. I assumed that it had fallen from my messenger bag. I don’t lose things, and that should have been a red flag that something was up.  A few days later I came downstairs to find C.J. entertaining himself on the couch by holding my wallet down while picking and tearing at the seams. He had stuck his little snout into my messenger bag, grabbed my treasured wallet, and entertained himself all Friday evening gnawing it apart.

My heart sank. I was furious that a special momento and something I valued was now a soggy chew toy. Why couldn’t he had found the stone I had heisted from Calle Laprida?

I reprimanded him in the best manner I was able and gave him a long time out while drying the wallet and the two slobber soaked 20 dollar bills.  The wallet was torn and ruined.   I’m not a professional dog trainer, but I know the window of discipline for dogs is short.  I went to bed without speaking to C.J., but we made up the next day and I could tell by his bulging brown eyes he knew he had done wrong.  Or maybe he just wanted to go for a walk in the park.

That weekend I looked through my little pile of stuff still in my travel bag. I save things like city guides, club flyers and art programs.  I had a small paper bag with the name and insignia of Luis Tinti – the gentleman who handcrafted his leather goods and ran his booth.  Even better, his email was clearly marked on the bag.

I snapped a few photos of the destroyed wallet, and sent him an email in Spanish explaining what had happened, and how much I appreciated the wallet. I asked him if he had an identical one he could mail, and sent him the locations of a Fed-Ex. He wrote back, very appreciate of my note and commiserated C.J.’s behavior. He said he was in the process of producing more with my favored design, and sending it Correo Argentino would be more economical.  I told him to take his time, and he insisted I not pay until it arrived.

A few weeks later a perfect wallet showed up.  I wired him some money (first time ever using Western Union) and send him some extra for his time and consideration.  Although I love C.J. I don’t trust yet that he won’t smell the new leather from three rooms away and do the same, so I’ve continued using the original ripped wallet while saving my new one for a special occasion – like my return to South America.

I suppose the down side to acquiring goods that have special meaning and significance, is that you can really get blue when they are lost are destroyed.  Fortunately in this case it worked out, and I thank Luis for that.   If visiting the Paseo de Recoleta I highly recommend tracking him down.   Just keep your good leather away from C.J. I also purchased a pair of leather shoes by Oggi, which I only keep at work.

I do use my cheesy “Evita” mug daily – it’s a perfect scoop size for C.J.’s dog food.

Lobo Larsen is a diving outfitter (beginner to advanced) in addition to offering a unique excursion:  The opportunity to swim with “Los Lobos del Mar,” or Sea Lions.

Weeks earlier I had stumbled upon their video, watched for about 15 seconds, and decidedly closed it before immediately sending them an email with my dates in Patagonia.   Unlike most activities I plan out to the letter, I wanted to be as surprised as was possible.

Upon arrival we suited up for our combination sea lion adventure and dive trip.  We hopped aboard a jeep and rode about 10 miles around the rocky coast to a boat on a small dock.  While boating out about a mile we saw a few groups of sea lions on the rocky shore.  Their flapping around and groaning reminded me of a similar boat ride eight years earlier, watching whales, puffins and glaciers in Alaska’s Resurrection Bay, while the boat captain with two prosthetic arms pointed out groups of sea lions and jokingly muttered how noisy and smelly they were. (He was paid by the state to do population counts during his trips.)   Now here I was, again in a small town during the off season, but almost to the geographic end of the opposite hemisphere – and this time about to go swimming with these big noisy guys.

A minute after we donned the snorkels and masks they were around us.  I had assumed that to “swim with the sea lions” meant we would see them in very close proximity.  However I had no idea the experience would be so immensely interactive. Imagine going to the park and 10 friendly dogs scramble up to you frolicking, licking and begging to play.  Now imagine you and all the dogs are in the water, and the pups are giants and weigh 250 pounds with huge brown saucer size eyes and foot long whiskers.  Just writing that months later makes me smile.

“Los lobos” rolled and bobbed around our small group for as long as we were in the water, constantly nudging us, thumping into us ascenting from their dives, and even nuzzling up to our faces, studying us for a moment and swimming away.  One playfully gnawed at my arm – thankfully their mouths and teeth are small in relation to their bodies.  They were so animated and friendly that by the end of our time in the water we could pick out some of the individual and most playful pups.

It was exhilarating.

This area of Patagonia is one of the few places in the world where people can actually swim with sea lions, since other locales are populated by sharks that prey on the little guys.  Note to families:  There’s a small museum in Puerto Madryn.  It has an excellent marine and fauna exhibits, but also a video showing the sharks’ sadistic predatory behavior to the sea lion pups.   After a sea lion swim I recommend skipping it and pretending nothing brutal ever happens in nature.

After our swim, which lasted about 34-45 minutes, we cruised to another part of the ocean and each of the 10 or so people in our group did a quick scuba dive.  Having done diving in the Caribbean, off the Yucatan coast, the murky Atlantic wasn’t at all comparable, and since I wasn’t certified the folks at Lobo Larsen didn’t want me diving solo.   (Conversely in Mexico so long as I prove I don’t freak out and know the signals many operators will let me dive and just follow me around ensuring myself and my gear stay safe.)

The dive was an enjoyable experience nonetheless, and after my dive I chose to relax and sit in the ocean outside the boat.  I figured I don’t often get to just float around in the Atlantic, much less stare are the rugged coast of Patagonia from the ocean.

The staff is among the friendliest people in Argentina I’ve met. Passionate about their work and knowledgeable.  I can’t think of anything more exciting and different to do if visiting Puerto Madryn, well maybe one other thing.

Doing it:    Puerto Madryn is two hours south of Buenos Aires by plane.  Aerolineas Argentinas flies to Trelew, about 30 miles away.  Tour companies are plentiful but I recommend a car.  We used Budget, located at the Trelew airport.

Avenida Roca 885, Local 2  Puerto Madryn, Chubut, Argentina

Lobolarsen.com

[Show as slideshow]

[View with PicLens]

About 100 local families call Yelapa home, with an additional group of U.S. and Canadian regulars during the high season. Yelapa’s “streets,” consist of winding narrow trails leading into the hills and a forming a maze of paths in town with cafes, small markets and tiendas closer to the shoreline.

Although it wasn’t necessary we reserved space on a water taxi the day before. These small boats seat about 20 people and leave every 30 minutes in the mornings and afternoons from Los Muertos pier, making the trip in about 40 minutes. The ride provides stellar views of Vallarta, Mismaloya and the Sierra Madre mountains behind Bahia de Banderas. Arriving Yelapa there are three stations in the small bay – the north dock which is mainly residential, the beach club in the center and the dock in the main village. We weren’t sure where to exit, so we hopped off at the beach and walked about 15 minutes into town via the hillside.

After finding our way back down to shore thanks some kids’ directions we ended up at one of the few open restaurants, “Cafe Bahia” directly in front of the dock where we had a wonderful breakfast of eggs benedict, black beans, corn tortillas and coffee.

An unexpected sight: When we found our way back to the shore we saw this enormous James Bond style yacht was suddenly parked in the bay. While impressive to see in person it’s quite ostentatious and out of place among the small boats and canoes in the small bay. I was told the owners harbor it along the coast a few days of the week to save on fees associated with docking in Puerto Vallarta. (Meanwhile a staff of at least 15 was milling about to make sure the likes of me didn’t sneak aboard for closer look.) Caste issues aside the helicopter was pretty damn cool.

A short walk up the Yelapa River is a cascade and pond, and a two hour hike further I’m told is a spectacular waterfall which is well worth the walk. Our feet needed a break so we chartered a horse and mule. I’m not exactly a skilled equestrian and my horse wandered off a different path before stopping and sticking his entire head into a local convenience store. We paid the gentleman 200 pesos each, (about $18,) to guide us and borrow his friend’s horses. This was way overpriced for such a short excursion but knowing our tourist dollars go directly into local hands makes it very well worth it. Later on I asked the same guy where can I could rent a sea kayak, and he pointed to the beach and said, “Sure you can take mine there that my kids are in.” and summoned his two youngsters into shore.

Above left: One of the small “streets.” Right: One of the fancier houses.

The village isn’t visually perfect. There are unfinished homes and foundations scattered about, and hoses are strung through trees and over the paths delivering water to homes without plumbing. You won’t find any five star resorts here, but from reviewing the local list of rentals I think I’d have no problem spending more time in this unconnected and relaxed hideaway.

To reach Yelapa from Puerto Vallarta: Visit the Los Muertos pier in the old town south of the Rio Cuale. Several water taxi operators are consolidated in one stand, and a round trip ticket is $25. Some of the resorts in Puerto Vallarta, like the Lindo Mar Resort, offer day trips to Yelapa to their guests or will at least provide discounted rates and shuttle services to the water taxi stations.

A cheaper alternative – take any city bus south on Highway 200 past Mismaloya to Boca de Tomatlan. Water taxis run more frequently between Boca and Yelapa, and are cheaper than from Vallarta.

Yelapa.info has plenty of details.

Several places rent rooms and apartments. Yelapa.info is an excellent one stop resource for lodging.

We saw campers on the beach, and along the river leading up to the small waterfall.

[Show as slideshow]

[View with PicLens]

There was some bad news out of Monterrey Mexico today, so I thought I’d use my media power to balance it out with a positive story about my police incident that occurred last year in the Yucatan town of Valladolid.

This was my second time in Valladolid, and again we stayed at the “Maria de la Luz” hotel, located in right on the Zocalo, (town square,) with simple, modest rooms but a lush courtyard, good restaurant and close to everything.

My Mom, Caleb and I had arrived in the evening after visiting the ruins of Tulum and Coba. We were entering Valladolid via the back roads south of town, (not highway 180,) and I got completely turned around and lost. When I finally located the Zocalo we found two of the four streets closed to construction and repaving, including the entrance to the hotel’s underground garage.

Tired and sweaty, we circled around the one way streets a few more times before finding a prime parking spot in front of the church, across the plaza from the “Luz” – pictured here.

We freshened up, had a nice dinner and crashed early after a long day of wandering around ruins in the sun. After sleeping in we set out to visit Cenote Dzinup and El Balam, before leisurely driving back to Playa del Carmen via old highway 180.

Before departing I was walking my Mom’s overnight bag to the car, and from halfway across the plaza I saw three police officers milling about my car. One appeared to be checking out the license plate while the others leaned against another car. I let out an audible “shit” and hurried over, trying to recall if there were meters, (never seen before in Mexico,) or if I had needed to pay to park or whatever.

Not sure what to say I simply blurted out “Buen dia, esto es mi coche – todo bien?” The three looked taken aback and said No, No — and they actually looked embarrassed for leaning against my dusty rental car.

After a couple seconds I realized they were simply hanging out, and had no intentions of ticketing my car or doing anything else that would seriously ruin my day.

The one leaning against the trunk stepped out of the way and gestured me over, then helped lift my Mom’s bag into the trunk.

They asked where we were visiting from, and I explained this was my second trip to the Yucatan and was taking my Mom on an overnight trip inland. We continued our conversation in half English half Spanish and I told them how fond I was of that part of the Yucatan region.

One of the other officers told me his sister lived in Phoenix, and their family was considering a move to Colorado, specifically Aurora for a job.

I locked up the car and chatted a bit more with another, then turned around and saw that he had his sister on the cell phone and put me on with her to answer questions about Denver.

So in true Mexican fashion, the simple task of walking a suitcase out to my car ended up taking 20 minutes, and I met four friendly locals in the process.

I returned a few minutes later with Caleb and my Mom, and they said all and wished us a good day.

Unfortunately I didn’t have my camera or else you would see a group photo here. I couldn’t ask for a better incident with “La Policia.”

The potential CON that comes with renting an apartment, is the opportunity to BE conned. Payment methods vary among renters and companies. Some rentals request a deposit of cash be WIRE TRANSFERRED in advance. That’s a 100% no for me under any circumstance. I only rent with those that accept credit cards, or Paypal which allows payment via your credit card. Should your transaction turn sketchy you can easily dispute the charges on your card, and your email exchanges will provide proof for an easy chargeback. Even L.A. Times travel writer Catharine Hamm was bold enough to use herself as an example to warn others what can happen: Don’t send cash, period.

Unlike hotels, with rentals you can’t filter through dozens of Tripadvisor reviews for details. You’re dependent on the referrals you find on the ‘net and the interaction you have by phone and email leading up to your stay. Good research pays. One night in a crummy hotel is far less lost than a rental provider not following through on a unit or ditching you upon arrival. For that reason I also take the name and address of a nearby hotel or hostel with availability, as a backup in case plans falls through. I’ve never had to use a backup, but it’s better to be prepared than sitting on your suitcase at a foreign payphone looking for someplace to sleep.

In a big city the options can be overwhelming. Googling “Buenos Aires Apartments,” or “short term rental” with any other large city yields a multitude of results.

In Buenos Aires I recommend BA4U Apartments. I found them through a small company specializing in day trips and activities geared to GLBT folks. BA4U Apartments only requested one night up front for my 15 day stay. I sent this on my credit card via Paypal, and was able to send the deposit via Paypal which was promptly refunded after departure. Their units are located primarily in the Recoleta, Barrio Norte and Palermo neighborhoods. The site is easy to use with plenty of photos and rates clearly posted, and most importantly my email communications were a breeze and all questions and any concerns answered promptly.

I had originally booked “The View”, but a few days before departure my contact Tomas informed me of gas problems in the building that would require substantial time to fix. He was apologetic and offered an upgrade to the “River View,” a new unit near Las Heras and Aguero, near Parque Las Heras, and also included airport transportation at no charge. Issue solved proactively and with excellent communication. Mind at ease I was then curious what the residents of the other building were doing without hot water. The only stipulation to my upgrade was that I water the plants. They obviously were unaware of my history with gardening. Thankfully it rained heavily the third day.

I actually preferred “RiverView’s” neighborhood along Las Heras over our original apartment along the stuffy designer store laden blocks east of Recoleta Cemetary. The neighborhood is perfect, and we found many small cafes walking various streets down to Avenida Santa Fe and back. This may have been particular to the building, but the two building managers were some of the friendliest Portenos I’ve ever met. I felt as though I had lived there for years and was more than just a tourist staying for a few weeks. On a few nights we had friends over with some new acquaintances for drinks – and I truly have never felt more like an expat living in a new city, even if it was for only half a month.

When returning I’ll definitely be scouting their catalog of residences again. And for those looking for a referral I highly and happily recommend them.

Doing it: All apartments and contact info listed at http://ba4uapartments.com.ar/

Above: View to the north and the Rio de la Plata. Right: Overlooking Avenida Las Heras and Hospital Rivadavia

Below: Drinks with friends. Right: The neighbor across the way tending to her flowers

Related: Marnixkade Canalview . Amsterdam

photos/edits by Caleb Cross Denver Colorado

I was on an afternoon walk passing the facility, and decided to give myself a self guided tour. As usual if you walk with a purpose, appear professional, and act like you belong somewhere you’re less likely to be questioned. Sometimes you can even attend White House parties.

I walked into the front door at Canal 7, past a cluster of folks standing by the door, and wandered around unimpeded for about a half hour. A couple of these pictures aren’t as clear as I’d like, since I took them as I was walking.

Above – one of the main hallways. “E6″ means “Estudio 6″ (Studio 6)

Below – an editing room

Above – a feed from President Christina Kirshner. I wasn’t sure if this is live or being edited, by chances are it was live since her frequent speeches are carried live.

Below – lighting and video control room

Above – news editing room

Above – Easily accessible floor. Kind of looks like the Buenos Aires sidewalks!

Below – studio for a sports show

Above – an old camera on display in the lobby

Below- company bulletin board in the cafeteria

I wasn’t able to immediately track it down in English, (I googled “Car Logos”) but later searched the author Giles Chapman and found that the English title is named “Car Emblems: The Ultimate Guide to Automotive Logos Worldwide”

Chapman details the history of logos, branding, design and evolution of automobile logos, including well known brands such as Chrysler and Oldsmobile and less heard of companies like Trabant. (At least less heard of to me.)

Check out how the logo samples on the English cover are different than the Spanish cover, which leaves out Lexus and Chrysler.

If there’s someone in your life who’s a car buff, this would make a great gift. You can find it (in English) on Amazon.