I was staying in Amsterdam solo for about five days before my sister and best friend Lili flew out to visit. We had an apartment with a full kitchen, so after eating breakfast and lunches at small cafes we usually would take in the experience of shopping the local Albert Heijn market and cook a nice meal at home. Not only is it fun to shop where the locals do, but cooking at home also saves a substantial amount of Euro dough. Not to mention after traversing the city with a 16 month old all day you’re ready to just mellow out by 7pm.

I wanted one grand indulgence during our stay, so I scouted out some places I passed by on Brouwersgracht. However it was a Saturday evening and many reservations were already filled up. Instead we ambled around the corner to Albatross Seafoodhouse – which I had my eye on since my first day’s arrival.  Albatross is a small place with a warm atmosphere.   Although the nautical accoutrements are a bit well,  overboard  (sorry – big groan) the place conveys a quiet vibe for romantic dining, or in our case dining with siblings and niece.  A big large aquarium greets you as you walk in – giving some great eye candy while you wait for a table.

We sat in the front atrium, the first table from the door in case Lili needed a little breathing room. She however slept through most of our meal, yet occasionally giving us a look of jealousy due to our food being slightly above par from the carrots and applesauce she had dined up before we walked over.

We started with an order of Dutch oysters served with warm bread, and we order two dishes for the two of us:  prawns with coconut curry sauce and the seabass with ginger and sesame.  The owner of the establishment visited our table a few times through the night – and of course we received many smiles due to the cutest (albeit sleep,) member of the table. Our appetizers were served with a tart anchovy dip. Customers like this dip so much that they print the recipe on small cards. It’s on my fridge and I have it a few times since.

We also chatted with a very nice gentleman from New Orleans, who was tooling around Amsterdam after finalizing his divorce. I supposed if you get divorced in Des Moines you travel to New Orleans for fun and frivolity, however if New Orleans is your home the only other real option is Amsterdam. He was kind enough to send a few glasses of wine our way – and of course we wished him the best, and a safe journey.

Albatross Seafoodhouse is at 1015 Westerstraat – in the Jordaan neighborhood of Amsterdam.

http://www.restaurantalbatros.nl/

I found the Marnixkade Canalview after a few days of haphazardly hunting around online for a place to reside during two weeks in Amsterdam. I researched the basic areas of town and was intent on finding a place in a more neighborhoody environment rather than the central tourist area or red light district. I was in the city solo for a four days before my best friend Lili flew in to meet me.

Based on the excellent reviews and email exchanges I chose the Marnixkade Canalview.  There are just two apartments in a typical looking four story building. Each apartment has a living room, separate bedroom, with full kitchen and washer/dryer.  I cooked dinner at home the first few nights there (being by myself,) so the nice kitchen was a plus to cook in during those rainy evenings.  The most notable feature is the beautiful view of the canal between Marnixkade and Nassaukade from the wide living room windows.

If you strive to “live like a local” when visiting a city, the Joordan district of Amsterdam is a prime location. Around the corner is Westerstraat, a larger retail street with grocery stores, clothing boutiques, and restaurants. The folks at Videoland were nice enough to set me up with a membership. (Another reason to return.)

The Marnixkade’s location is about a five minute bike ride to the city center. However you could spend an entire day in the Joordan alone. Home to the Ann Frank House and Westerkirk (church,) along with intricate mazes of smaller streets, (watch out for bikes and scooters!) From this location its easy to follow the semi circular path of the canals to access other parts of town too, while avoiding the busy streets.

The Marnixkade is run by Bruce and Eelko. Bruce is an expat from the U.S., and his Dutch partner Eelco have lived in the house for about 15 years. Allen, a student from South Africa manages the day to day duties, and has a really cool accent too. Upon arrival I found a kitchen stocked with meats, cheeses, breads and miscellaneous Dutch treats including those cookies with the caramel in the middle.

If you’re looking for a temporary home in Amsterdam, I can’t say enough wonderful things about Bruce, Eelco, Allen, and the Marnixkade. More info on their site at www.marnixkade.com.

It’s an easy day trip by bike, but if you’re riding a single speed made for the city you can expect a bit of work if the winds pick up.

I rode from my apartment in the Jordaan neighborhood down to the Central Station and along the modern waterfront.

Getting a bit lost along the way I passed through the small neighborhood of Zeeburg and over two large bridges (with separate bike paths,) which connects North Holland.

After crossing under the A10 motorway I was officially in the country and followed the signs north while studying farmhouses sitting amid long trenches of water. I stopped for a coffee at the town of Durgerdam (above photo) then proceeded up through Uitdam and on to Kruisbaakweg, the road which sits atop the dike.

Being mid March there wasn’t much activity in Marken except for a local wedding party, but after exploring the nooks and crannies of the town, as well as the small museum and modern library, I settled down for a burger and a couple Amstels at the one open restaurant.

The extremely narrow streets, small houses, and cobblestone walkways reminded me of the island from “The Prisoner.” Thankfully I was allowed to bike home without being consumed by a giant white sphere.

Be seeing you!

The IJ Tunnel from Amsterdam to North Holland

Modern buildings along Amsterdam’s waterfront

Well marked bike routes

Houses in Uitdam – This one entirely on the water.

The house below is preparing their yard for the gardening season.

Below: Natural Power.

A couple friends…

Above and Below: Village of Marken

Lunch.

The second: In the narrow streets of The Jordaan, a neighborhood just west of the city center and home to the Westerkerk (church) and the Ann Frank House.

In the Jordaan on Marnixstraat. Note the kid riding “wheelbarrow.” The large building to the right is a health club/fitness center.

Typical non separated bike lane along a moderately busy street.

When blessed with good weather the network of paths outside of the city can make for great day trips to outlying towns. Signs clearly label bike routes, or “fietspads,” and the distances to towns, cities, and landmarks. While some paths parallel busy motorways others traverse quiet farms or provide extensive views from atop dikes.

Considering costs, renting a bike for a weeks won’t run much more than you’d pay after using up several “strippenkaarts” hopping on and off trams and buses.

As most know the Dutch don’t see cycling as recreational pastime or hobby restricted to sunny weekend mornings. Biking as transportation is a regular part of life, anytime of day, rain or shine. When watching bikes filled with groceries and kids swoosh down streets it appears cute and utopian – but visitors are well served to respect this method of transportation and follow basic traffic rule. Being mindful of bike right-of-ways and keeping your head on a swivel will keep you and your fellow cyclists safe.

The majority of streets have bike lanes on the sides, or adjacent to the street buffered by parking or medians. If lacking a designated lane then bikes share the road with cars. Along the smaller brick streets that hug the canals space is a bit tighter and shared with pedestrians. However if you prefer a slower pace then following the canals will give you beautiful views of the city, and you’ll be tempted to stop for a picture every time you crest the small bridges.

It may sound harrowing; but anyone skilled in basic vehicular cycling will do just fine. Motorists and tram operators are observant to pedestrians and cyclists. Many local intersections don’t even have signals or stop signs – rather they allow cars and bikes to decide for themselves via eye contact or the “give to the right” rule.

One infrastructure rule I quickly learned was that the bike signals are located on the posts directly in FRONT of you. I and even other locals tended to pull PAST the signal – and have to crane our necks back to watch it turn green.

On one busy intersection I mistakenly pulled into the street because I was watching the signal on the NEXT sign post. This netted me some well deserved honks, but lesson quickly learned.

There are many of bike rental establishments including the popular chain Mac Bike. Any place is fine for a spin around Vondelpark or jaunt outside of town – however if you plan on keeping a bike for an extended period as I did you’ll garner a bit more respect on the streets if you blend in with a regular bike, rather than one garnishing the logo of a rental company.

“Bike City,” was recommended to me as a good place to rent. They’re in the Jordaan neighborhood at Bloemgracht 68, near Westerkerk and the Ann Frank House. I rented a solid bike seven speed with a wheel lock and heavy chain for about 75 Euro for the week. It served me perfectly in the city and outside of town too. Like their site says their bikes are inconspicuous so you won’t be noticed as a tourist – and with their heavy duty locks you can use your bike as a regular means of transportation – running errands and seeing the sights.

Unlike cities that are overwhelmed with the noises of honking taxis and smoke spewing buses Amsterdam is remarkably quiet. And so is their transportation. Trams glide along tracks and bikes breeze by you – which means it’s important to be vigilant of your surroundings. But with those cautions I can’t think of a better way to see this beautiful city and experience it as the locals do.

More tips:

-Whether biking or walking – keep your head on a swivel.

-Don’t walk on designated bike lanes.
-Cross tram tracks at a 90 degree angle.
- You don’t want to get your wheels caught in them.
-If you need to stop (or stop suddenly) to check your map and get your bearings pull out of traffic.
-Lock your bike. Always.

Next post: Day trips by bike outside of Amsterdam.

Above and Below: For the kids

Fully Stocked:

Space For Bikes on Trains

Kid at a Market

by James Van Dellen

During the day many visitors enjoy lunch here after touring the Anne Frank House just a few blocks away, but in the evening it seemed to populated mostly by residents from the bordering Jordaan neighborhood to the west.

A small bar greets you upon entry, serving coffee in the morning and spirits by night – or to some the opposite.  Up a few stairs and to the back is a dining area with large tables – perfect for a solo meal like mine or gathering with others.  This pictured meal is my typical European breakfast, but usually with about three more coffees.

Café De Prins is located at Prinsengracht 124 at Leliegracht.  Or better yet, copy the map location.

First my apologies to my faithful readers for the two week gap in posts.  You see I’ve been traveling around The Netherlands taking tons of photos of things I love:  bikes, trains, food, and architecture of modern and old.  

Amsterdam is an incredible city.  With the never ending canals, cafes, clean streets, and bikes everywhere its a utopia.  But why haven’t I been blogging every night from my trusty Asus computer?    Well - I’ve had a companion with me.   A few days after my arrival my sister and my beautiful niece Lili joined me in Amsterdam to continue our Dutch adventure.   Time to start waking up at 6am instead of going to bed at 6am!

I’ve learned that traveling with kids doesn’t lend time to much else.    I’ve always been the person silently praying to be spared in 29A watching a group of kids shuffle down the isle towards me.   I’ve always been the annoyed one when sitting in a quiet coffee shop and the strollers steamroll in.   And I’ve always been dumbfound at the mall seeing the amount of gear parents need to carry with them for a simple outing.  

So why on earth would I want to travel with a 15 month old?  Well I don’t see her much here in the states, and as you can see by the photo - she is perfect.  Reason enough.  So in addition to driving around the countryside and cycling in the city I’ve made a new friend and travel buddy – and she’s just as interested in people, places, and city life as I am.

And I even managed to keep my mouth shut as a parent on the plane lamented Southwest’s ceasing their family first boarding.

More photos and stories on the way…

Among the exhibits being shown were Ruth Van Beek’s “Reconstructions,” where old photographs from the past few decades are arranged and sometimes oddly maneuvered to create new works, shapes, people, and places.

Also in March was Taryn Simon‘s “An American Index of the Hidden and Unfamiliar.”  Wikipedia describes it as the following: 

In An American Index of the Hidden and Unfamiliar she documents spaces that are integral to American industry and culture, but which remain inaccessible or unknown to a public audience. She gained access to and photographed rarely seen sites from domains including science, government, medicine, entertainment, nature, security and religion

The Photography Museum of Amsterdam is a Keizersgracht 609, a few steps east of Vijzelstraat.

And March?  Yes I know it could be cold and dreary.  But early spring airfares to Europe are inexpensive, and I’ll take an umbrella over sweaty shirts and crowds of people.   If I can find interesting things to do on a rainy day here in Denver I’m sure I can do the same over there. 

We plan to visit for 10 days, with a side trip to Brussels or Germany.  We are renting a one bedroom apartment in this building which is located right on one of Amsterdam’s canals.  (details forthcoming.)

By shopping at markets and cooking some meals at home, (like I do when renting a ski condo,) you end up saving a significant amount of money, and have a more “homey” experience.

In the meantime if anyone has tips to share please pass them along!  If this is half as enjoyable as last year’s time in Munich and the Czech Republic I’ll have a great time…

Travel related – this NY Times story about hard drive inspections gives me the heebiest of jeebies, (to quote Peggy Hill.)  Should border officials be able to walk through your “virtual life” and read various documents, see photos, and more?  Of course not.   My advice:   Store all your important photos, music, and documents on external hard drives.   And of course take only what you need when traveling.  This not only gets around snoopy inspection officers, (or the Geek Squad,) but saves you when your hard drive crashes too.  

Argonaut Liquours – Denver’s most well known purveyor of spirits is moving.  At least not very far.

Here are some interesting animations of Mexico City’s airport renovations.  It’s not a bad airport, if you love walking.   Instead of various terminals and the more modern concept of centralized check ins, Benito Juarez Int’l is one long, long, long, linear terminal.  

The new terminal and shuttle will eliminate gate congestion, and avoid deplaning on the tarmac and being bused inside, as happened to me in 2005.

Stayed tuned for a review of “Neighborhood Flix,”  In the meantime you can watch the Medsled video.  I could definitely have some fun with this thing on the slopes…